A Garden-Worthy Perennial: Threadleaf Bluestar

Posted on March 25, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Amsonia hubrichtii, the threadleaf bluestar, is one of my favorite plants. It was not well known among gardeners until the Perennial Plant Association named it the 2011 Plant of the Year. The species was discovered in 1942 by Leslie Hubricht growing in the Ouachita Mountains in central Arkansas. The species was later named in her honor.

Each plant has ornamental qualities that make it stand out from other perennial wildflowers. In May and June, clusters of small powder blue, star-like flowers top the strong stems. The stems are encircled with soft, narrow leaves resembling pine needles, making each plant look like a small shrub with feathery texture and incredible fullness. I have found them to be extremely hardy, drought tolerant and very low maintenance.

The real show develops in September when the foliage turns a butter yellow fading to a golden brown by October. One specimen plant is spectacular in each season of the year, but a group of ten or more massed together and strategically located are quite stunning. Individual plants can reach up to 48 inches tall and 24-36 inches wide. They prefer full sun to partial shade and an average garden soil.

This summer I have only watered them 3 times, so they are tough. At the arboretum, they are planted along the east border paths. Amsonia hubrichtii is a dynamic perennial that deserves a place in your garden.

Other Amsonia are just as ornamental, but offer different textural elements and sizes for just about any sunny to partial shade landscape setting. They are Amsonia illustris, Amsonia ‘Blue Ice’, Amsonia cilliata and Amsonia rigida.

Find amsonia hubrichtii and other garden-worthy perennials on our Plant List 2015 and visit us at our FloraKansas Spring Plant Sale, April 24-27, 2015.

Vines: Taking Your Landscape to a New Level

Posted on March 18, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Vines are underutilized in nearly every garden, in my opinion, including here at the arboretum. It may be that we don’t have the structures to support them and show off their attributes, or we are unfamiliar with how to grow them. Either way they need to be used more. In fact, I think vines are one of nature’s greatest gifts to gardeners. They can give us shade by covering a pergola, camouflage ugly elements within the garden such as sheds, poles and fences, or bring color, texture, and fragrance to a trellis or arbor. Vines are utilitarian because they fit into almost any available space. I need to use them more here at the arboretum, so I thought we could work through this problem together and maybe begin to incorporate these native vines to a greater extent, literally.

Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens ‘Major Wheeler’) is the best selection of honeysuckle I have grown. It has twining stems with smooth leaves that seem to be resistant to mildew. But who grows this plant for the foliage? I love the flowers. In late spring, it is covered in red trumpet shaped blooms that keep coming well into summer, especially with a post-bloom trim. The hummingbirds will find it from miles around. It grows best in a medium to moist well-drained soil and partial shade.

Major Wheeler Trumpet Honeysuckle

Dutchman’s Pipe-vine (Aristolochia tomentosa) is a vigorous, climbing woody vine without tendrils. The interesting pipe shaped flowers appear in May and June. Large, heart-shaped leaves are attractive throughout the year and turn a nice yellow in the fall. In Kansas, it is found in the southeastern counties. I have this vine growing in morning sun and afternoon shade. It will need a trellis or arbor to grow on and a medium to moist soil. Pipevine is the host plant for the Pipevine Swallowtail butterfly.

Grape Honeysuckle (Lonicera reticulata ‘Kintley’s Ghost) is a vine we have been using for several years. We have it growing on either side of the entrance to the Visitor Center. The gray-green leaves develop in an attractive eucalyptus pattern. At the terminal ends of the stems the bright yellow flowers develop in spring. It can grow in sun to partial shade and prefers an average to moist soil. It is great in form and flower.

Grape Honeysuckle

American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is grown for the beautiful fruit clusters that develop during the summer and are noticed and eaten by birds in the fall. Male/female plants are separate and both are needed to produce fruit. Foliage is attractive on the twining stems. It grows best in a morning sun location, but can grow in full sun if given some supplemental water during the summer. Train along fence or over an arbor. Celastrus scandens ‘Autumn Revolution’ is a form with male and female flowers on the same plants.

Bittersweet Fruit

Passion Flower (Passiflora incarnata) develops three inch diameter lavender flowers that have a rich fragrance. These flowers are striking and have religious symbolism. The vines can reach up to 12’ in one year and die back to the ground during the winter. Situate in a semi-shade area with a medium to moist soil. I would mulch lightly to protect crown from harsh winter temperatures.

Other vines for the garden are Pitcher’s Leather Flower (Clematis pitcheri), Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea peteolaris), and Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya ‘Powell’s Purple’)

Don’t miss the opportunity to include these great vines in your garden by visiting the arboretum spring plant sale. I tend to keep flowers at ground level but these vines will take your garden to new heights and add interest to levels not normally utilized.

For more information on these vines and other garden worthy plants visit the arboretum website at www.dyckarboretum.org.

Fremont’s Clematis: A Rare Beauty

Posted on March 11, 2015 by Scott Vogt

The other day, I began transplanting seedlings of Fremont’s Clematis for our FloraKansas spring plant sale. I was thrilled that we actually will have some to offer this year. In the past, we have struggled to achieve germination, but this year we have been successful.

Fremont’s Clematis Seedlings

The seed from which these plants germinated was collected last summer, as our staff took a detour on our way back from a retreat at the Flinthills Discovery Center in Manhattan. The seed germinated last fall and overwintered in the seedling flats. Over the past few weeks they have really come to life and it was time to move them before their taproot grew too large.

Fremont’s Clematis, or Clematis fremontii, a rare prairie native from Kansas and Nebraska, is quite different from the traditional climbing clematis species. It forms a small bush that is covered in spring (late-April) with sugar-bell shaped flowers of purple and white. Each flowers curls at the end. The oval leaves are leather tough and covered with fine hairs, almost fuzzy in appearance. These plants, once established, are resilient. They develop into large clumps. We have had several plants in the same spot for over 15 years, in one of the xeriscape beds just outside the Visitor Center entrance.

Fremont’s Clematis loves sun. We collected the seed from plants on a rocky hillside in central Kansas. They are thriving in that windswept exposed prairie. If they are thriving there, then all they need is plenty of sunlight (at least 6 hours) and a well-drained soil.

I always look forward to their arrival in spring. They are one of the first plants to emerge and bloom in our rock garden here at the arboretum. If they are happy, they will give you years of consistent beauty. Be sure to come early to the FloraKansas Plant Sale and get some while they are available!

Is Your Gumbo Soil Making You Sing the Blues?

Posted on February 25, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Our soil here in Kansas is gumbo. Not the delicious soup, but heavy clay. It is clay all the time and all the time it is clay. I have tried to describe it to others, but it needs to be experienced. They may say they have something similar, but for us who endure it and garden in it and curse it, it is exasperating. Unbelievable, really.

Clay soil is often too wet or too dry. When wet, it sticks to your shoes and tools like a leach. Every step you take makes you one inch taller. When dry, it is like concrete, impenetrable, and cracks wide open.

Do you ever feel like you need one of these to work in your clay soil?

I had a gentleman from Ohio work with me one spring. Every morning with anticipation I awaited his next derogatory comment about our clay soils. He really grew to dislike it and even questioned my sanity for trying to garden in it. “I have never seen anything like it!” he said. He was so ready to go back home to his beautiful Midwestern soil.

Our soil is amazing stuff – no doubt – and it presents challenges for growing plants. But let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons of clay soil.

Positives of clay soils (Yes. There are a few.)

It holds water well – The fine particles are porous retaining water and holding it tightly.
It holds nutrients well – The tiny particles are negatively charged attracting many positive elements like phosphorus, potassium and other minor nutrients.

Negatives of clay soils

Low water infiltration rate (usually one inch per hour)
Shrinks and swells with moisture
Keeps root zone wet for prolonged periods, which is problematic for drought-tolerant native plants
Slow to warm in the spring
Compacts easily when worked wet
Often so tight that plant roots cannot grow

Tips for improving clay soils

So, do we have any hope of improving our clay soil? It can be done, but will require some work.

Organic matter, organic matter and more organic matter is what it will take to improve your soil. Put down at least six to eight inches of organic matter on the entire area you want to enhance. Organic matter can include shredded leaves, compost, grass clippings or aged manure.
Next, you must till the organic matter into the soil to a depth of at least six inches or deeper. Keep in mind that the deeper you go the more benefit to the soil you will realize.
When complete, the bed will be built up several inches. Not to worry, it will settle over time as the organic matter continues to break down and melt into the clay. It will take several seasons to fully accomplish the desired result which is a soil that is manageable.
Add organic matter on an annual basis for a garden or initially when establishing a new display bed.

Volunteers planting shrubs in our Prairie Window Project.

It is very difficult to improve an established bed. Adding mulch will improve it over time as the mulch begins to decompose. Any new plants that are established can benefit by digging a hole at least twice as big as needed and incorporating compost and existing soil together as you back fill around the root ball. Don’t just put compost around the roots as you back fill, because it will discourage the plant from rooting out into your gumbo soil. It is essentially like repotting the plant in the soil. The roots will only grow in the loose compost.

You will be rewarded for your efforts. Even a little compost mixed with your gumbo will improve your soil. Mulch it with two to three inches of mulch and over time you will develop a soil where plants thrive. Don’t let your soil get the best of you.

Five Benefits of Native Plants

Posted on February 18, 2015 by Scott Vogt

The prairies of the Great Plains are diverse and complex. They are often overlooked and taken for granted. They are subtle in beauty, but resilient. Because of the many benefits the prairie provides to us and the environment, it is an ecosystem worth saving. Here are five benefits of native plants – though there are certainly more that we will experience as we begin to utilize these plants in our landscape:

Low Maintenance

There is no such thing as a no-maintenance landscape. Native plants still need some care, but compared to a traditional landscape with a lawn, tidy shrubs and a few trees surrounded by perennial beds, native plants are extremely low in maintenance. Native plants are adapted to our climate and can grow in the toughest environments. Once established, their deep roots take them through prolonged periods of drought. It was great to see native plants blooming in the fall of 2012 after so many days of scorching heat. The blue sage, heath aster, goldenrod, little bluestem, and switchgrass brightened up our prairie reconstruction. It was a testament to their toughness. The slide below illustrates exactly why native plants are so much more resilient than the typical lawn – notice the difference in the root system of turf grass (far left) to many of the most common wildflowers and grasses of the prairie.

Saves money

There are obvious savings associated with a native landscape compared to maintaining a traditional landscape. A native landscape uses less water, little or no fertilizer and no chemicals or pesticides, which in turn saves you time. I am frugal and a native landscape is a low cost alternative to a traditional lawn-dominated landscape. Conservation and stewardship are trends that help you and the environment.
Water

We have seen an increased interest in native plants because of the water they save once established. Many homeowners are decreasing their lawns as a way of saving water and money. Most roots on a fescue or bluegrass lawn are only three to four inches deep compared to prairie wildflowers and grasses that develop extensive root systems several feet deep. Big Bluestem grass for example establishes roots up to ten feet deep. With a shallow root system, a typical lawn requires ten gallons of water per square foot through the summer to keep it looking green. If you minimize your lawn, you will begin to diminish your dependence on water. Click here for an example of a Waterwise Landscape Design.
Beautiful plants

If you have ever walked through a pristine prairie or observed the changing seasons in the Flint Hills, you know the exquisite beauty of wildflowers in bloom coupled with native grasses. It is understated and taken for granted. I am always amazed at the complexity and intricacies of these prairie plants. They create a very unique sense of place.

Missouri Black-eyed Susan

Attract pollinators and wildlife

Pollinators and wildflowers have a symbiotic relationship. If you have wildflowers you will have butterflies. There have been over 20 documented butterflies in the arboretum during the butterfly counts. They seek out our wildflowers and utilize them throughout the year. Monarch populations are declining. They need milkweeds, and since we have milkweeds in the arboretum, they show up. Read this article on how to encourage and sustain the monarch butterfly population by planting milkweed varieties. Also, just like the Monarchs, songbird populations are declining. They need prairie habitat for survival along with wildflower seeds to feed overwintering birds.

Monarch caterpillar on swamp milkweed

There are more reasons to grow native plants, but you get the idea. Prairie is good, not only for you, but also for the environment. The many benefits far outweigh negative perception. When you plant native wildflowers and grasses, you will be rewarded time and again for your prairie habitat. I don’t know how we got away from our regional identity of a prairie landscape, but it is essential to who we are and what grows best here.

Join us in re-establishing some prairie roots in your own yard, and then spread the word by sharing this information with your friends.

Is Your Native Plant Garden For the Birds?

Posted on January 28, 2015 by Scott Vogt

This winter, I have been designing a landscape using native plants for the Northern Flint Hills Audubon Society in Manhattan. This design has been a great experience as I have evaluated the site and thought about what attracts birds to a landscape. Does the design provide the basic necessities of food, shelter and water for birds?

Here are a few things to keep in mind when planning to make your garden bird-friendly:

Certainly, native plants are a preferred food choice of birds. Fruit-bearing trees and shrubs can support a wide variety of bird species. Include plants that hold their fruits through the winter like Viburnums, Junipers and Sumac. Choose deciduous trees such oaks, maples, hackberries, mulberries, crabapples, serviceberries and dogwoods along with shrubs that will provide berries (viburnums, elderberries, sumac, and chokeberry), seeds and nuts at different times throughout the year. Native wildflowers like coneflowers, black-eyed susan, little bluestem, sunflowers (use with caution, these can be aggressive), and asters provide nutritional seeds that birds love.

A robin looks for food in a native plant bed.

A mother robin looks for food in a native plant bed.

Utilize trees, shrubs and perennials to simulate the natural layers of the wild. Birds seek out protection in dense evergreens in winter, while brush and impenetrable thickets keep nesting sites safe from predators. I like to leave a small brush pile and a few dead branches (unless they are dangerous to people or property) in our trees to provide insect food, nesting cavities, and shelter. Larger deciduous trees offer birds a higher vantage point for perching and resting. Ground-feeding birds sift through decaying leaves and even work through the outer layers of our compost pile.

A newly-hatched nest of robins in a hawthorn tree. Photo by Cheri Kaufman.

A nest of robins in a hawthorn tree outside the Visitor Center at the arboretum

A water source for birds can be as simple as a bird bath or as elaborate as a small pond. Any water source is like a magnet for birds. The sound of water is irresistible. Keep the water clean and fresh to eliminate the possibility of algae and diseases by changing water every few days. In winter, water is even more critical for bird survival. Keep water open and unfrozen by installing a thermostatically controlled heating element in your water feature. If birds find your reliable pool of water, they will continually visit your yard and you will be rewarded for your efforts with a diverse collection of colorful visitors each day.

The need for suitable habitat for birds has never been more important. Your yard can be part of the solution by providing a sanctuary for birds. Just, identify the missing elements and include them in your overall design. Birds need a safe place to land. Why not in your yard? I am guessing that with a few enhancements you can turn your landscape into an oasis for local and migrant songbirds.

Remember to garden for the birds! To prepare your native plant garden to attract birds this year, check out our 2015 Plant List and save the date for our FloraKansas Spring Plant Sale, April 23-27, 2015.

What Would Change Your Mind About Using Native Plants in Your Landscape?

Posted on January 21, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Would you choose a garden that takes less of your time to maintain? Or a sustainable, environmentally, eco-friendly, pollinator friendly garden that heightens the senses? Do you want masses and drifts of color that are attractive throughout the year? What about native plants that can be used in smaller spaces? Are you needing a multi-functional garden that attracts pollinators, which also help your food crops or vegetable garden? How about gardens that look attractive both day and night? What if you could still have the usable space you need to entertain, but have a sustainable garden at the same time blended into the landscape? I want each of these to happen in my native plants landscape.

Butterfly weed

It can be intimidating to change the way you garden or landscape. We want evidence that making such a change really will make a difference in our lives and in our gardens. Below is one case in favor of using native plants. When the Lincoln Public Library transitioned its landscape to native buffalograss and prairie plantings, the results were worth the effort.

Case Study from the Great Plains

A Public Library in Lincoln, Nebraska converted 2.5 acres of bluegrass turf to buffalograss and mixed prairie plantings.

Results:

Reduction of 1.5 million gallons of water per year for irrigation
Reduction of 800 pound of fertilizer per year
Reduction of 5 gallons of pesticide concentrate per year.
Source: Leafings, August 2000, a Nebraska Statewide Arboretum publication.

Pale Coneflower

Here is how NATIVE PLANTS DELIVER!

Offer carefree beauty once established
Require less water if properly matched to your site
Adapted to our soils and climate
Attract birds, butterflies and a host of other pollinators to your garden
A properly designed garden provides year-round beauty

Home landscapes can be transformed as well using native plants so that they are sustainable, easy to maintain, and beautiful. To start planning your native plant garden, be sure to SAVE THE DATE for our FloraKansas Spring Plant Sale and keep an eye out for our upcoming 2015 plant list.

How to Design a Native Plant Garden

Posted on January 14, 2015 by Scott Vogt

One of the biggest criticisms of native plants is that they often look too wild, unkempt and messy. Grasses dominate while wildflowers struggle to provide the visual impact desired in a landscape. Wild is as wild does.

So how do we tame the wildness of the prairie? How do we design a native plant garden that doesn’t look so wild? Is it even possible? I believe it can be done. You can have the beauty of the prairie and all the benefits of a native ecosystem with a properly designed native garden.

Consider these fundamentals as you design your native plant garden:

Butterfly weed and ornamental native grass display

Match plants to your site. Look at your landscape. Is it sunny or in the shade? Is the soil clay or sand? Evaluate these elements and choose plants that will thrive in the microclimate of your yard. Sun-loving native plants need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight to grow happily. Otherwise look at more shade-loving natives. A carefree landscape begins with matching plants with climate. Choose plants that occur in the same or similar climate for a maintenance free garden. It has been my experience that this is the most important element in developing a successful native garden. Anytime you stray too far off, the plants don’t flourish and they require more effort. Planting a swamp milkweed on a dry hill or a primrose in a bog will never work.

Native Columbine

Design for succession of bloom. There are no Wave Petunias in the prairie or plants that bloom all season, so choose plants that will bloom in spring, summer and fall. If you go to the prairie throughout the year, you will observe wildflowers coming into or out of bloom. The prairie is constantly changing. Design with those changes in mind. Discover how native plants appear at different times of the year and highlight interesting elements such as seedheads for winter interest. Grasses can be included for structure, winter texture and movement. Little bluestem in fall accentuates the seedheads of the Missouri Black-eyed Susan beautifully.

Summer Prairie Garden

Group similar plants together. Fifteen blazing stars blooming in the summer create a focal point in the landscape. Place them next to a spring blooming wildflower and a fall blooming wildflower and you have organized the display for year round interest. Use grasses sparingly to frame the garden or as a backdrop for some of your wildflowers. This makes it easier to maintain, because you know what is planted in each area. When weeding, you know everything else has to be removed because wildflowers will reseed.

Kansas gayfeather and gray-headed coneflower

Keep your plants in scale. Choose plants that don’t grow taller than half the bed width. So if your display bed is six feet wide choose plants that are no more than three feet tall. A compass plant would be way too tall.

Define the space. A well-designed native garden can be enhanced with a border. It can be edged with limestone, brick or some other natural material. This element alone makes your native garden look clean, attractive, and intentional. Even a clean-cut edge can really help define the garden’s borders.

Control Perennial Weeds. You will save yourself many headaches by eradicating problem weeds like bindweed and Bermuda grass before you plant. It is better to wait until these weeds are eliminated before you establish your new garden, trust me!!!

It sounds so easy, but we all know that landscapes, no matter how well-designed, will take some input on our part. Beautiful gardens don’t just happen. They are the result of planning, development, time and a little bit of effort.

I am still learning too. My epiphany came several years ago after trying to grow dry, sun loving plants in a wet, sunny garden. It took me three tries to realize the futility of my efforts. Hopefully, you can learn from these basic principles and find success in your landscape. If you need information about native plants, visit our plant library, landscape designs or give us a call.

Winter Garden Checklist

Posted on December 17, 2014 by Scott Vogt

Last week, in early December, I did some work in my yard. The day was warm, which made the work more enjoyable. While I was working I made a checklist of all the things I need to get done in my yard before next spring. My daughter Allyson is graduating from high school and we are having her graduation party in our backyard. So the pressure is on to get it ready for the big event.

It may seem strange to be thinking about spring when it’s cold outside, but in March and April, when things start blooming, you’ll be glad you planned ahead. Here are some things you should definitely include in your winter garden checklist:

Leaf Collection

It is critical this time of year to continue removing leaves so they don’t smother your grass. Fescue lawns need sunlight even during winter months and a thick layer of leaves can stunt growth or kill the lawn altogether.

Pick Up Hoses and Drain Irrigation System

Unhook hoses from the faucet, drain them, roll up and store inside. Hoses can deteriorate if left out through the winter. The sunlight can be harmful and water left in hoses can cause damage due to freezing temperatures. I drain sprinklers and irrigation systems that can be busted by prolonged cold weather.

Prune

Winter is the ideal time to prune deciduous trees because they are dormant. Prune dead branches and shape trees. Step back and look at the tree as a whole before pruning. Envision what the tree will look like after the branch is removed.

Mulch

Landscapes can really benefit from a fresh layer of mulch. Put down 2-4 inches of wood chips or any weed-free organic matter before the ground freezes. Mulch keeps the soils temperatures more even, holds moisture, slows runoff, and controls soil erosion. Newly planted trees and shrubs will benefit the most from mulch.

Clean Gutters

Before winter rains and snowstorms, it is a great time to clear away any leaves or debris that has collected in your gutters this fall. Impeding flow causes ice buildup which is a safety concern when it falls from the roof. Be careful and don’t fall off the ladder.

Winterize Equipment and Tools

I run stabilized fuel through my power equipment and then drain the fuel tanks. Gas left in the carburetors can do damage to them by deteriorating the components and aluminum parts. A varnish can also develop which clogs small openings within the components. Chainsaws, hedge trimmers, weed-eaters, and mowers will be ready to go next spring. Clean, sharpen and store hand tools. A thin coat of linseed oil will keep them from rusting.

Take Notes

What do you need to do next spring? What plants will you need to fill the gaps in your landscape? What are your dreams for your outdoor space?

First plant to bloom in the arboretum next spring – Vernal Witchhazel

Spring will come too fast. So will Allyson’s graduation. It is hard to believe that 17 years have passed already. People kept telling me that she will grow up fast. They were right. We look forward to that graduation day with anticipation and a lot of fear and trembling. Hopefully, my backyard will be ready, because I know I will not be ready for that day.

How to Make a Natural Evergreen Wreath

Posted on December 3, 2014 by Scott Vogt

The other day I made a wreath out of Juniper branches to hang from the Visitor Center chandelier. We needed a centerpiece for our luminary stroll open house. It took about 45 minutes. This natural evergreen wreath was easy to make and looks great.

Here are the steps to making your own natural evergreen wreath:

First, find a Juniper tree with large quantities of blue berries. Prune branches 18 to 24 inches long. You will need at least 12 branches this size.
Next, place four branches in a square overlapping each other by six to eight inches. Make sure branches are all facing the same direction all around the square.
Tie the stems to the upper portion of the branch-ends with fine black wire.
Next, attach four more branches but rotate 1/8 of a turn. Tie stems and tips together like the previous square. Tie these branches to the original four branches as well.
Now look at the wreath. If there are exposed stems (pruned portions), cover them with the last four branches placing them the opposite direction. Tie these branches to the wreath tightly. All ties should be invisible.
I topped my wreath with some red holly berries. They really show up well against the dark green of the Juniper branches.
You can finish it with some red velvet bows, pine cones or other natural elements.

The fragrance of fresh cut evergreen branches permeate the room plus you have the satisfaction that you created your own wreath from natural elements. If I can make this, then you can too. Good Luck.