Kansas Native Shade Plants

South Central Kansas presents a unique challenge for gardeners: the region’s signature “oven-blast” summer winds and intense sun make shade a sanctuary, but the dense shade under established canopy trees can be a difficult place for typical bedding plants to thrive. Moving toward a native shade garden isn’t just an aesthetic choice; it’s a strategy for resilience. Here are some ideas that may help you as you think about your own shade garden.

The Ground Layer  

To build a successful shade layer, look to the woodland floor. Eastern Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is an excellent perennial for early spring color, offering delicate red and yellow spurred flowers that are magnets for migrating hummingbirds. Some nice spreading groundcovers would include woodland phlox, golden ragwort, wild ginger, and white woodland aster. For those dealing with “dry shade”—the notoriously difficult areas under large maples or oaks—Bluestem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia), Elm-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago ulmifolia) and Blue Wood Aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium) provide a critical late-season nectar source for pollinators when most other shaded plants have finished blooming.

Texture and Structure

Structure is just as important as flowers in a shaded landscape. One of the best native ferns, such as the Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina), adds a soft, lace-like texture that contrasts beautifully against the bold, leathery leaves of Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). While many associate hydrangeas with high water needs, the Oakleaf variety is remarkably tough once established and provides multi-seasonal interest with its white summer panicles and deep burgundy fall foliage. Grasses and sedges are a great way to fill the voids and add late season interest, too.

Mimic Nature

Getting started requires a “layering” mindset rather than a “row” mindset. In nature, Kansas woodlands consist of a tall canopy, a middle understory of small trees like the Eastern Redbud, and a ground layer of perennials. To replicate this, clear out invasive species like non-native Bush Honeysuckle first, then focus on improving the soil with compost and leaves rather than heavy fertilizers. Planting in “drifts” of three or five of the same species will create a more natural look and make it easier for pollinators to locate their food sources in the darker understory. 

Here is a list of other shade plants for you to choose. 

Shrubs

  • Amelanchier Canadensis – Canadian serviceberry
  • Aronia arbutifolia – Red chokeberry  ‘Brilliantissima’ cultivar
  • Aronia melanocarpa – Black chokeberry   ‘Viking’, ‘Low Scape Mound’, and ‘Gound Hug’
  • Callicarpa americana – Beautyberry
  • Cephalanthus occidentalis – Buttonbush
  • Cornus amomum – Silky dogwood
  • Cornus racemose – Gray dogwood
  • Corylus americana – Hazelnut
  • Diervilla – American Bush Honeysuckle (Not invasive)
  • Hamamelis vernalis – Vernal Witchhazel
  • Hamamelis virginiana – Witchhazel
  • Ilex decidua – Deciduous holly
  • Ilex glabra – Inkberry
  • Lindera benzoin – Spicebush
  • Rhus aromatica – Aromatic sumac
  • Staphylea trifolia – Bladdernut
  • Viburnum acerifolia – Mapleleaf viburnum
  • Viburnum prunifolium – Blackhaw viburnum
  • Viburnum rufidulum – Rusty blackhaw viburnum 

Perennials

  • Actea pachypoda – Doll’s eyes
  • Allium tricoccum – Wild leek
  • Aquilegia canadensis – Wild columbine
  • Asarum canadense – Wild ginger
  • Eupatorium purpureum – Sweet joe-pye-weed
  • Eupatorium rugosum – White snakeroot
  • Eurybia divaricata – White woodland aster
  • Geranium maculatum – Wild geranium
  • Helianthus angustifolius – Narrow-leaved sunflower
  • Helianthus giganteus – Swamp sunflower
  • Heuchera Americana – Alum root
  • Lysimachia cilliata – Fringed loosestrife
  • Maianthemum canadense – Wild lily-of-the-valley
  • Phlox divaricata – Woodland phlox
  • Podophyllum peltatum – May apple
  • Polygonatum biflorum – Solomon’s seal
  • Smilacina racemose – False solomon’s seal
  • Solidago caesia – Bluestem goldenrod
  • Solidago odora – Anise-scented goldenrod
  • Solidago ulmifolia – Elm-leaf Goldenrod
  • Symphyotrichum cordifolium – Blue wood aster

Graminoides

  • Carex appalachica – Appalachian sedge
  • Carex pensylvanica – Pennsylvania sedge
  • Carex rosea – Rosy sedge
  • Carex texensis -Texas sedge
  • Chasmanthium latifolium – Riveroats (AGGRESSIVE)
  • Deschampsia flexuosa – Common hairgrass
  • Elymus hystrix – Bottlebrush

Maintenance

Maintaining a shade garden in South Central Kansas requires a “low-intervention” approach that prioritizes moisture retention and soil health. Our region typically has heavy clay soils that can swing from waterlogged to bone-dry in a couple of weeks. We recommend applying a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch—such as shredded leaves, compost or, ideally, fallen leaves (leaf mold) to maintain a cooler root zone and suppress weeds.

Native species are quite adaptable to the specific clay-heavy soils and erratic moisture cycles of the Great Plains but even the hardiest shade plants will struggle without regular watering through the summer months. After all, you are trying to grow them in an area that was once a vast prairie with limited rainfall, not a forest with more consistent rainfall throughout the year.

Watering should be done deeply but infrequently at the base of the plants to encourage deep root systems, specifically during the “flash droughts” common in July and August. During these prolonged periods without beneficial rainfall, weekly watering is essential to sustain your shade garden.  Unlike sun-loving gardens that may require some deadheading, a native shade garden benefits from being left alone in the fall; leaving the spent stalks and leaf litter provides critical overwintering habitat for beneficial insects and naturally replenishes the soil nutrients for the following spring.

Arching stems of Solomon’s Seal

Native Milkweeds

The Essential Foundation of the Butterfly Garden

Native milkweeds (genus Asclepias) are far more than just roadside weeds; they are the biological foundation of our resilient North American landscape. As the sole host plant for Monarch butterfly larvae, milkweeds provide essential chemical compounds that protect these iconic insects from predators. By integrating native species into your garden, you aren’t just adding greenery—you are participating in a larger conservation effort to stabilize declining pollinator populations.

Monarch caterpillar on common milkweed (Photo by Brad Guhr)

Selecting the Right Species for Your Soil

One of the most common misconceptions is that all milkweeds require the same environment. To ensure success, you must match the plant to your specific site conditions. Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) thrives in heavy clay and moist soils, making it perfect for rain gardens or along a pond edge like we have at the Arboretum, while Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) demands sharp drainage and sunny, dry spots. Choosing a species indigenous to your specific ecoregion ensures the plant will thrive with minimal supplemental watering once established.

Monarch butterfly on swamp milkweed, Asclepias incarnata, in late August. Hesston, Kansas. (Photo by Janelle Flory Schrock)

Aesthetic Appeal Beyond Utility

Beyond their ecological impact, native milkweeds offer striking ornamental value that rivals traditional nursery bedding plants. The vibrant, tangerine clusters of Butterfly Weed provide a rare “true orange” to the summer border, while the architectural, spherical blooms of Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) fill the evening air with a heavy, honey-like fragrance.  Other spreading but valuable milkweeds are Sullivant’s Milkweed (Asclepias sullivantii) and Showy Milkweed (Asclepias speciosa). Each milkweed has unique seed pods that also provide late-season visual interest, eventually opening to release silken “floss” that catches the autumn light.

Sullivant’s milkweed at Chase State Fishing Lake. Photo by Brad Guhr.

Managing Growth and Expectations

Integrating milkweed into a formal landscape requires a bit of strategic planning. Some species, like Common Milkweed, Sullivant’s Milkweed, and Showy Milkweed spread aggressively via underground rhizomes and are best suited for meadow-style plantings or large back-borders.  Plant these spreading milkweeds with other pushy natives like beebalm, spreading goldenrods, gray headed coneflower and Brown eyed susans and let them fight it out. For smaller urban plots, “clump-forming” varieties like Whorled Milkweed (Asclepias verticillata), Green Antelopehorn Milkweed (Asclepias viridis), and Butterfly Milkweed offer a more refined, airy texture that won’t overtake neighboring perennials. Deadheading spent blooms can prevent unwanted self-seeding, though leaving a few pods is vital for the next generation of plants and silk-gathering birds.

Butterfly Milkweed with yarrow, coneflowers and Golden Baby early goldenrod.

A Year-Round Wildlife Hub

The value of milkweed in the landscape extends well beyond the Monarch. The high-quality nectar produced by Asclepias flowers supports a diverse “who’s who” of beneficial insects, including honeybees, specialized milkweed bees, and predatory wasps that provide natural pest control. Even in winter, the sturdy stalks can provide nesting habitat for native bees. By choosing native milkweeds over exotic alternatives like Tropical Milkweed—which can harbor parasites—you create a safe, synchronized, and spectacular sanctuary right in your own backyard.

Bumblebee on common milkweed.

Plant Profile: Scarlet Globemallow

It is hard to find things that will bloom in November. Usually the only things still blooming are asters and witchhazel bushes, but last year the scarlet globe mallow surprised me! The following photos are from November 14th, well into the cool season. It was still going strong and even attracting pollinators. This plant was a new addition to my home garden this spring and it did not disappoint. Read on to learn more about this western Kansas native and how to use it in the landscape.

A Western Beauty

Scarlet globemallow (Sphaeralcea coccinea) is native to a huge swath of the western United States, from Kansas to Utah and from New Mexico to Montana. Its range also extends north into Canada and south into the deserts of Mexico. It is in the Malvaceae family, which is why its bloom bears a resemblance to distant cousins like hollyhock, hibiscus, and purple poppy mallow. S. coccinea can withstand extremes of hot and cold temperatures and thrive in thin, rocky soils. Attractive to pollinators, grazed by deer and pronghorn, and visited by birds for its seeds, it is likely a welcome site to many animals living in inhospitable environments.

Range map from USDA Plants Database – https://plants.usda.gov/plant-profile/SPCO

From Wild to Mild

While I am not looking to attract any pronghorn to my urban landscape, I was happy to see bees buzzing around it even late into the season. Despite its rugged preferences, it fits in well in the average home garden. But only if you have the right setting: rocks, hot south exposure, full sun, good drainage. The raised bed off our sunroom gets blistering sun all afternoon in summer. The eaves overhang here and block most of the rain from falling on this bed, so it relies on my less-than-reliable hand watering. Nevertheless this plant got absolutely HUGE this year, much larger than expected. The abundant rains this year did hit the very edge of the bed and must have supercharged its growth, as it quickly started spilling out of the raised stone bed and onto the walkway.

Garden Tips for Globemallow

Scarlet Globemallow should be used as a ground cover and filler plant. It has beautiful quarter-size blooms and stays relatively short, less than 16″ tall. This plant seems to become more upright and less leafy with drought stress and hotter temps, though mine stayed very lush and trailing all summer. It would look fantastic paired with drought-loving grass (like blue grama), a spring bloomer (like Missouri evening Primrose) and a taller show stopper (like Solidago rigida). This simple combination would give your garden multi-season interest with very low water needs and plenty of flower for pollinators to visit. I planted mine alongside Fendler’s aster and non-native Saponaria ocymoides. While I like them all individually, the habits were all too similar for my taste. I may swap out a few plants this spring to make room for grasses or something with a more vertical habit.

All these plants mentioned and more will be available at our spring FloraKansas fundraiser event! Its a great chance to get your hands on hard-to-find native and adaptable plants for our region, and chat with experts who can answer your garden questions. We’d love to see you there, and to see more Scarlett Globe Mallow making its way into the home gardens of our members and friends.

Side-oats Grama – KNPS 2026 Native Plant of the Year

Side-oats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) from the grass family (Poaeceae) is the Kansas Native Plant Society 2026 Kansas Native Plant of the Year.

Side-oats grama is an important perennial bunchgrass species of the mixed-grass and tallgrass prairies and it can be found in every county of Kansas. This 1-3’ tall sun-loving, drought tolerant warm season grass blooms from July to September and is found most commonly in dry open grasslands.

Side-oats grama commonly grows with little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and does not compete well with taller grasses or forbs.  It grows best on limestone soils but is also adaptable to sandy or clay soils as well.

Bouteloua curtipendula in flower (Photo by Michael Haddock)

The name “side-oats” refers to the oat-like flower/seed clusters hanging in a zig-zag pattern to one side of the stem. The genus honors 19th century Spanish botanists Claudio and Esteban Bouteloua, and the species epithet comes from Latin ‘short hanging’ for the short-stalked seed heads.

This grass is the larval host plant for several skipper butterfly species. The seeds are consumed by grassland birds, and the vegetation is highly palatable to livestock.


Bouteloua curtipendula in seed (Drawing by Lorna Habegger Harder)

Side-oats grama is underutilized in native plant gardens. The attractive purple and orange anthers stand out while blooming in the late summer and the seed clusters turn to shades of gold in the fall. This grass is easily propagated from plugs or seed sown in the fall or the spring (if cold/dry stratified). It is gratifying to collect the seeds in fall – you can easily accumulate them by running your hands up the stems. Side-oats grama is a must-have species in any prairie reconstruction or urban prairie meadow. For maintenance, simply mow or burn it every year or two in winter or spring.

Bouteloua curtipendula in seed (Photo by Michael Haddock)

To see more Bouteloua curtipendula photos by Michael Haddock and a detailed species description, visit kswildflower.org.

Plant Damage from Insects

A ragged-looking leaf on our precious garden plants sets off alarm bells for most people. But why? I think this instict arises from the agrarian roots of human civilization. A threat to our plants, at one time, was a threat to our very survival. If an insect ate our crops, our town or village might not survive the winter! That was a major concern at certain points in human history, and remains so for farmers making their living from crops. But for our ornamental garden plants this is not the case. In urban landscapes of trees, shrubs and flower gardens, insects on plants should be viewed as a good thing and not a threat. Read on to learn about some common culprits of ornamental plant damage, and why they are more friend than foe.

Leaf-Cutter Bees

A leaf-cutter bee hard at work making discs of plant material for her nest.
Photo by Line Sabroe from Denmark, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

There are over 200 species of leaf cutters bees in North America. These native solitary bees make neat, circular cuts from leaves to use as nest material for their eggs. And while it makes your plants looks like swiss cheese, the damage is only cosmetic. A healthy, well-established plant will have no trouble regrowing new foliage. Leaf-cutter bees carry pollen on their bellies, and perform vital pollination services to crops and wildflowers alike. If you see neatly cut holes in your plants, keep your eyes peeled for friendly leaf cutter bee nearby! They create a tube-like cavity for a nest, so they may be hiding in rotted wood or plant stems. So don’t burn that brush pile just yet, and consider leaving your garden standing all winter long to provide lots of safe nesting sites.

Tent Caterpillars, Web Worms and Other Gregarious Feeders

Have you ever seen a tree with a mass of webs on its branches? You’ve got tent caterpillars! There are several types of web-producing caterpillars in Kansas that consume a variety of tree species. These types of caterpillars are known as gregarious feeders. They can form a wrigglng mass and eat voraciously, defoliate a significant portion of the tree in just a few days. As you might suspect, homeowners are quick to panic. But a tree is a huge organism, with ample energy storage below ground. A healthy tree regrows leaves in a matter of weeks with no ill effects. Unless you are trying to harvest a fruit or nut crop from your trees, the caterpillars are no problem at all.

This young walnut tree lost over half its leaf matter in a matter of a few days. But this photo was taken in 2023, and two years later that tree is still going strong, healthy as ever.

The best course of action is to simply sit back and watch. Birds will swoop in and have their fill of the juicy caterpillars (espeically if you gently open the webs with a stick so they can get access!). Parasitic wasps will come buzzing around, seeking out these caterpillars as a host for their larvae. And in no time at all the hungry hoard will either have been eaten up or have moved on to transform into a moth, which feed more birds, bats, and other wildlife.

Milkweed Bugs

Photo by ShenandoahNPS, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Milkweed is famous for being the host plant of monarch butterflies, but many other speices like to nibble this plant too! Milkweed is essential to the life cycle of several species of caterpillars and many other true bugs and beetles. In late summer and fall you may find black and red bugs crowded together on developing seed pods. These are milkweed bugs, Oncopeltus fasciatus, and they use they feed on seeds. They are a native insect, co-evolved with the milkweed and posing no threat to its health or longevity. While they may decrease the viable seed count, milkweeds are usually quite prolific seed producers, making more than enough seed per year to keep populations high where conditions are right. The best course of action is to let the bugs feast! They are fun to watch, and there are usually several generations all feeding together, making it easy to see the different growth stages and transfromations they undergo as they grow and molt.

Buggy Blues

I get many calls and emails from concerned folks wondering what is eating their plant and how to stop it. While I am happy to help identify a mystery bug, I am less eager to advise control methods. Mostly these are native insects fufilling their ecological role and not threatening the health of the plant. If the plant in question is not directly feeding humans (say, a tomato plant or a fruit tree or a field crop) then why should we intervene?

Hackberry trees often have galls on the bottomside of the leaves, caused by a tiny psyllid fly. While there may be thousands of galls, the damage to the tree is minimal, and the flies are food for many other insects! Photo by Beatriz Moisset, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

While we may not like the look of a plant being nibbled on, that superficial feeling is temproary. Plants recover quickly, and a momentary gap in our viewing pleasure is a matter of life and death for insects who desperately need the nutrition to survive, reproduce, or migrate. Insect populations are crashing, and reframing our relationship to them and apprecaition for their role in nature is the first step in slowing down their decline.

Plants have evolved for millions of years to easily survive a bit of munching by bugs. In fact, they are the base layer of the food chain, the channel through which all energy enters the system to begin with: they turn sunlight into physical matter, and that energy is funneled up through every creature that takes a bite of the leaf. If we thwart that natural system with overzealous control and ubiquitous use of pesticides, we can expect to see the collapse of the ecosystem, and human survival with it! So, instead of “let them eat cake!” I say, “let them eat leaves!”

Hybrid Aster ‘Thunderdome’

The asters have been blooming prolifically this fall, probably due to the mild weather and frequent rains we have had. While we have many species of asters on our grounds, the newest additions are a hybrid type called ‘Thunderdome’, introduced in 2023 by Intrinsic Perennials. Read on to learn about this new aster, its origin story and the potential uses in the garden.

North East Meets Midwest

New England aster, as seen in the range maps below, is prevalent throughout its namesake region and upper midwest. Aromatic aster is much more common in the Great Plains. This regional difference shows up in their growing preferences, which is an important factor in determining which species is best in different garden situations. New England aster thrives in slightly wetter, richer soils and aromatic aster can handle the drier soil and hotter temps. ‘Thunderdome’ combines the compact habit and drought tolerance of A. oblongifolius but the deeper purple color of A. novae angliae.

Happy Hybrid

I am often a skeptic of some of the newly introduced hybrid native plants. Too often they are short-lived, overhyped, and rarely deliver on their promises. And researchers are still unsure about whether hybrids and cultivars of natives offer the same ecological services as their parent plants. But I am happy to report that this aster has preformed better than expected in our gardens. Planted just last fall, they matured quickly and bloomed their first year. Not as tall and gangly as New England aster, I am very much appreciating the improved habit. The bloom period has been quite long, and the flowers continue to hold their color.

It has also been attracting lots of attention from insects, and below are just a few of the recent visitors to this particular aster:

Aster ‘Thunderdome’ will continue to be evaluated in our gardens for its ornamental and ecological merits. You can find it blooming now on the west side of the HUB, just north of the greenhouse. I have high hopes for this lovely plant, and hope to see more of it used as we continue to learn about its ornamental potential. It is available for purchase at our biannual FloraKansas events, along with both parent plants and many other native and adaptable aster species from our region.

Garden Success Story: From California to Newton

When Ron and Kathy Smith moved to Newton from California, they had a bit of garden trouble. “If I just looked at stuff wrong, it died,” said Ron of his first attempts at landscaping. The growing conditions were totally different than what they were accustomed to. The Kansas climate was much more extreme, and the plants they where previously familiar with were not hardy here. Eventually they decided to work with Dyck Arboretum staff to create a landscape plan with native perennials from our area. Ron thought that if they used plants that were already found here naturally, “then maybe I won’t kill it!”. 

Designing and Prep

Ron drew up a sketch of his ideas for the garden and shared this with Scott during the design process.

The project began in 2019. Ron and Kathy had a sketch of their idea: large curving beds around the front and side yard, with stone lined paths through the gardens. The couple communicated their goals and vision for the space, and Scott Vogt drew a design for the front yard and foundation plantings. He helped the couple with plant selection, number of plants and proper spacing, and timing the bloom for all year interest. The beds include favorites like Penstemon, Echinacea, and ornamental native grasses, as well as some unique showstoppers like Rudbeckia maxima. When it’s in bloom, “people stop and ask about it,” said Ron of the tall statement plant. He remarked how often he sees birds perching on it. He has been known to give out the seed heads of this plant, and many others, to passersby who are interested in trying them in their own garden. 

Installation and Maintenance

When they first planted the garden, they used drip irrigation, though they haven’t used it much once the garden matured. They used landscape fabric as a weed barrier on the initial install, though their experience with it has been mixed. “We didn’t know what we didn’t know,” says Ron. Weeds still come up through it, and the fabric can make them difficult to pull. It also slows or stops the natural spread of the plants which is part of the beauty of a prairie garden. Ron mentioned that he has cut out quite a bit of fabric to allow the plants room to spread. Here at the arboretum we don’t use fabric in our beds because it can be such a hassle, and instead we opt for temporary and biodegradable solutions like cardboard with mulch over the top. 

Change as Part of the Process

Some plants did well right away, and others had to be replaced or shifted to find the right fit. Even with the fabric in place, some perennials have seeded in, moved around, and or cropped up in different places than expected. Ron’s philosophy? “Don’t be too stuck on the design”. Plants move and change, and every year the garden will be a bit different. This is part of the beauty and interest, and something he looks forward to. “I have no problem letting the plants have their own ways.”

Despite a few hiccups, the garden has thrived. It attracts birds, butterflies, insects of all kinds, along with the occasional raccoon and armadillo! It is a season long treat for anyone who walks or drives by, and a great example of how converting a bit of lawn to garden can create beauty and habitat in our neighborhoods.

We love to help people dream up beautiful and ecologically friendly landscapes. If you are interested in a landscape consultation from one of our staff members, please fill out this form. Note that best planting times are April and September, and proper site prep can take many months, so be sure to plan ahead!

*All photos for this blog were taken by Ron Smith.

New Jersey Tea – KNPS 2025 Wildflower of the Year

New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus and C. herbaceus) from the Buckthorn family (Rhamnaceae) is the Kansas Native Plant Society 2025 Kansas Native Plant of the Year. Since these two species have similar habitats and differ only slightly in their appearance and have overlapping distribution in Kansas, both were included in this year’s selection. 

Ceanothus herbaceus is blooming beautifully in the Arboretum right now, so I figured it would be a good time to reshare the KNPS newsletter article (with permission) featuring New Jersey Tea.

Both New Jersey Tea species are woody shrubs that produce attractive clusters of small white flowers in late April to June and grow to 2-3’ tall. They are drought-tolerant species typically found in well-drained, rocky prairie habitat. Ceanothus americanus (eastern half of Kansas) only has the common name New Jersey Tea but C. herbaceus (eastern 2/3 of Kansas) also goes by Inland Ceanothus, Inland New Jersey Tea or Redroot.

Ceanothus americanus (Photo by Michael Haddock)
Ceanothus herbaceus (Photo by Michael Haddock)

In their book Growing Native Wildflowers, Dwight Platt and Lorna Harder summarize the subtle field characteristic differences between these species in their publication Growing Native Wildflowers:

  • The leaves of C. americanus are broader and ovate or egg-shaped, broadest below the middle, while the leaves of C. herbaceus are elliptic, broadest at the middle.
  • In C. americanus, the clusters of flowers are somewhat elongate and are borne on leafless stalks (sometimes with two small leaves at the base of the flower cluster), that grow out of the axils of leaves. In C. herbaceus the clusters are more flat-topped and are borne on the end of leafy twigs.
  • There is a ridge on each lobe of the fruit in C. americanus and no ridges in C. herbaceus.
  • The fruiting stalks drop even before the leaves drop in the fall in C. americanus. In C. herbaceus, the little stems and “saucers” that held the fruits may remain on the plant all winter.

Both of these Ceanothus species are attractive to nectaring butterflies and hummingbirds and the vegetation is host to butterfly larvae of the spring azure (Celastrina laden) and mottled duskywing skipper (Erynnis martialis). Culturally for humans, the leaves of New Jersey Tea were used as a substitute for black tea during the American Revolution.

New Jersey Tea is underutilized in native plant gardens and should be considered for a sunny spot in a home landscape. Collect the black, glossy seeds before they fall from 3-lobed capsules in July. Platt and Harder report success germinating the seed with treatment of one minute in boiling water followed by 2-3 months of cold, wet stratification.

C. herbaceus in bloom at Dyck Arboretum on 4/23/25 (Photo by Brad Guhr)
Whole plant view of C. herbaceus in bloom at Dyck Arboretum on 4/23/25 (Photo by Brad Guhr)
C. herbaceus w/ green, ripening seed at Dyck Arboretum on 5/21/25 (Photo by Brad Guhr)
C. herbaceus w/ green, ripening seed at Dyck Arboretum on 5/21/25 (Photo by Brad Guhr)

To see more Ceanothus americanus and C. herbaceus photos by Michael Haddock and detailed species descriptions, visit kswildflower.org.

Eupatorium Emporium

Stuck inside during the cold days of January and February, I spent some time working on the 2025 Native Plant Guide. It takes many hours to revise the list every year – double check the native ranges, add new species and take off those that are no longer available, and constantly correct my sloppy spelling! I noticed that this year we will have a huge variety of Eupatorium species available at FloraKansas. These beauties are not the most popular plant in the prairie garden, but they should be! So here is an introduction to Joe Pye weed in all its forms.

Eupatorium coelstinum

Mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum) blooming in Bird Park, Mount Lebanon, Pennsylvania

Mist flower is a lovely and rather petite member of this group of plants. It generally stays less than three feet tall, and blooms late summer through fall. It resembles the annual ageratum that I am used to seeing at traditional greenhouses. But this one is better! Why? Much more drought hardy, it is a perennial, and it is native here in Kansas, particularly in the far south east counties. In my experience, it does best in partial sun though many online sources say otherwise. I think hot afternoon sun on west or south exposures can wilt it, leading to less vigor.

Eupatorium perfoliatum ‘Blind Date’

‘Blind Date’ has flat topped flowers and chocolate colored new growth. Photo from Intrinsic Perennials

E. perfoliatum, common boneset, it native to pretty much every state east of the Rockies, and also Canada. Versatile and adaptable, it finds a home in roadside ditches, woodland margins, and along streams and wetlands. Moist soil is best for this beauty, and be prepared for rapid spread if conditions are right. The variety ‘Blind Date’ has slightly darker new growth than the straight species, giving it an ombre effect and heightening its ornamental appeal.

Eupatorium altissimum

E. altissimum via Wikimedia Commons

Tall Boneset is beloved by pollinators, but not so much by gardeners. It grows up to 6 feet tall in some cases, and spreads readily by seed and by rhizomes. Hundreds of white flowers appear in late summer, much to the delight of butterflies, beetles, wasps, bees, and many other crawling and flying things! Sometimes labeled as a ‘problem plant’ or undesirable, it’s actually quite lovely. If you have lots of space and don’t mind a bit of chaos, it is a worthwhile addition to wildlife gardens or pocket prairies. Not sure of your soil moisture level? No problem, this plant grows in wet or dry conditions, and can handle full sun or partial.

Eupatorium maculatum

Spotted Joe Pye Weed gets its name from the marks on its stem that distinguish it from other similar species. Tall plants are topped with umbels of pink flowers, and it needs full sun and consistent moisture to stay looking its best. Planted around ponds, near streams, or in reliably wet rain gardens, this plant will get up to six feet tall.

Name Game

Taxonomists, those scientists that work to classify living beings into the proper groups, have been hard at work changing some names around. Eupatorium spp. with whorled leaves were changed to the genus Eutrochium, while those that have opposite or alternate leaves stayed the same. Mist flower is now referred to as Conclinum coelstinum, once genetic analysis revealed it was more closely related to Ageratums than true Eupatoriums. The genus name Eupatorium actually comes from ancient times, in what is now Turkey. It has a fascinating history involving King Mithridates VI of Pontus, known as Eupator Dionysius, and his fear of poisoning.

Eutrochium dubium ‘Little Joe’

File:Eupatorium dubium 'Little Joe' Plant.jpg
Photo (c)2009 Derek Ramsey (Ram-Man), GFDL 1.2 http://www.gnu.org/licenses/old-licenses/fdl-1.2.html via Wikimedia Commons

A lover of wet soil and sunny situations, ‘Little Joe’ is the best loved of all the plants in this group. It has been widely available for garden use for many years. The cultivar is shorter and more manageable than the straight species, but is unchanged in flower shape and color. E. dubium is not native to Kansas, found mostly in the southeastern US and Atlantic coast region. But it grows well here in garden settings with supplemental watering.

Eutrochium fistulosum

Hollow Joe Pye weed via Wikimedia Commons

The largest of all the Joe Pye, this plant is also known as trumpetweed and Hollow Joe Pye. This is due to its mostly hollow stems. If you are looking for a statement plant, or something to obscure a fence or add some privacy, this might be the Joe Pye for you! Partial sun and medium soil moisture will suit just fine, though once established it is pretty tough and can handle a wide range of soil conditions.

Photo via Wikimedia Commons

What do all these Eupatoriums have in common? All are excellent for pollinators, all of them can be used ornamentally or for cutting gardens, and all of them are available at the spring FloraKansas event!

The Making of a Meadow

One of the lesser known services the Arboretum provides is native landscape consultation and design. We have had the privilege of working with many homeowners who want help creating aesthetically pleasing and ecologically friendly spaces in their yards. These are sometimes small plantings around a mailbox, or huge, multi-layered installations. Each is unique, and staff get the pleasure of watching these gardens mature and thrive as the homeowners send updates and attend our events. Following is the story of a large meadow planting that stands out as a particularly special example.

Prairie to Prairie Garden

In spring of 2019 Arboretum staff were approached by a homeowner who was building a new home in the country, surrounded by expansive views of the prairies all around it. Rather than the typical monoculture green lawn around the new house, this client wanted a lush garden space to attract birds and bugs, and blend the residence into the Kansas landscape.

From this conversation, an idea emerged: a meadow-style garden as a gradient space from pasture and prairie to garden and home, a smooth transition from wild to tended. Closest to the house would be formal beds, with straight lines and steel edging. The design would include less structure towards the meadows edges. We discussed the aesthetic differences between a naturally established, randomly composed prairie and a prairie garden, which has distinctly human patterns and groupings. And, critically, much human maintenance to keep it so! 

A bit hard to see, but this scan of the design shows the groupings and mixtures that make up the meadow. Many have been changed after the first few years, as we learned of slightly low areas that stayed wetter than expected, and exposed places that are subject to higher winds.

To accomplish these goals, my design included familiar prairie species in sweeping lines and clusters, and at a much higher ratio of flowers to grass than found in the surrounding area. Inspired by the designs of landscape legends Piet Oudolf and Roy Diblick, I aimed for flowing color ways, careful bloom timing and thick matrix plantings. The design includes thirty five different species, with many more added since. 

Plant, Water, Weed, Repeat

I used a rolling spray paint dispenser to create clearly defined planting zones and meadow borders. This made it easier to stay on track with the design and toss out plants in the right place.

Over one thousand plants were installed early June of 2020, and the homeowner has continued adding and adjusting every year since. When first planted, the task of watering and weeding such a huge garden was monumental. Many hours were spent plucking bindweed seedlings and crabgrass clumps before they could take root. Thanks to diligent work by the homeowner and her partnership with a local landscaping company to assist with ongoing maintenance, a high percentage of plants established beautifully. Most have grown larger and more vigorously than expected!  

bird feeders with lush meadow in the background
Looking out the window in midsummer: various bird feeders and sculptures, and no shortage of flowers to admire. The landscape design included taller grasses at through the middle and back of the meadow (Panicum ‘Dallas Blues’) to allow for open viewing nearer the house. Rudbeckia maxima and Echinacea angustifolia are blooming in the foreground.

New Visitors

As the meadow grew, so did sightings of insects, birds, and mammals. Hoards of black swallowtail butterfly caterpillars devoured the Zizia I’d included in the design. Goldfinches pillaged Rudbeckia maxima seed heads. Thirteen-lined ground squirrels started scampering amongst the grasses near the house. Deer tramped through the garden occasionally for a tasty nibble. 

Now the meadow is mature but ever changing. The homeowner is continually filling gaps with new species and dividing old ones when they get too large. We have provided follow up consultations for this meadow. We’ve also designed additional installments along the driveway and near the back deck. I couldn’t be happier with how this landscape turned out, and am grateful for the chance to follow its progress!