Kansas Native Shade Plants

Posted on April 21, 2026 by Scott Vogt

South Central Kansas presents a unique challenge for gardeners: the region’s signature “oven-blast” summer winds and intense sun make shade a sanctuary, but the dense shade under established canopy trees can be a difficult place for typical bedding plants to thrive. Moving toward a native shade garden isn’t just an aesthetic choice; it’s a strategy for resilience. Here are some ideas that may help you as you think about your own shade garden.

The Ground Layer

To build a successful shade layer, look to the woodland floor. Eastern Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is an excellent perennial for early spring color, offering delicate red and yellow spurred flowers that are magnets for migrating hummingbirds. Some nice spreading groundcovers would include woodland phlox, golden ragwort, wild ginger, and white woodland aster. For those dealing with “dry shade”—the notoriously difficult areas under large maples or oaks—Bluestem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia), Elm-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago ulmifolia) and Blue Wood Aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium) provide a critical late-season nectar source for pollinators when most other shaded plants have finished blooming.

Texture and Structure

Structure is just as important as flowers in a shaded landscape. One of the best native ferns, such as the Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina), adds a soft, lace-like texture that contrasts beautifully against the bold, leathery leaves of Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). While many associate hydrangeas with high water needs, the Oakleaf variety is remarkably tough once established and provides multi-seasonal interest with its white summer panicles and deep burgundy fall foliage. Grasses and sedges are a great way to fill the voids and add late season interest, too.

Mimic Nature

Getting started requires a “layering” mindset rather than a “row” mindset. In nature, Kansas woodlands consist of a tall canopy, a middle understory of small trees like the Eastern Redbud, and a ground layer of perennials. To replicate this, clear out invasive species like non-native Bush Honeysuckle first, then focus on improving the soil with compost and leaves rather than heavy fertilizers. Planting in “drifts” of three or five of the same species will create a more natural look and make it easier for pollinators to locate their food sources in the darker understory.

Here is a list of other shade plants for you to choose.

Shrubs

Amelanchier Canadensis – Canadian serviceberry
Aronia arbutifolia – Red chokeberry ‘Brilliantissima’ cultivar
Aronia melanocarpa – Black chokeberry ‘Viking’, ‘Low Scape Mound’, and ‘Gound Hug’
Callicarpa americana – Beautyberry
Cephalanthus occidentalis – Buttonbush
Cornus amomum – Silky dogwood
Cornus racemose – Gray dogwood
Corylus americana – Hazelnut
Diervilla – American Bush Honeysuckle (Not invasive)
Hamamelis vernalis – Vernal Witchhazel
Hamamelis virginiana – Witchhazel
Ilex decidua – Deciduous holly
Ilex glabra – Inkberry
Lindera benzoin – Spicebush
Rhus aromatica – Aromatic sumac
Staphylea trifolia – Bladdernut
Viburnum acerifolia – Mapleleaf viburnum
Viburnum prunifolium – Blackhaw viburnum
Viburnum rufidulum – Rusty blackhaw viburnum

Perennials

Actea pachypoda – Doll’s eyes
Allium tricoccum – Wild leek
Aquilegia canadensis – Wild columbine
Asarum canadense – Wild ginger
Eupatorium purpureum – Sweet joe-pye-weed
Eupatorium rugosum – White snakeroot
Eurybia divaricata – White woodland aster
Geranium maculatum – Wild geranium
Helianthus angustifolius – Narrow-leaved sunflower
Helianthus giganteus – Swamp sunflower
Heuchera Americana – Alum root
Lysimachia cilliata – Fringed loosestrife
Maianthemum canadense – Wild lily-of-the-valley
Phlox divaricata – Woodland phlox
Podophyllum peltatum – May apple
Polygonatum biflorum – Solomon’s seal
Smilacina racemose – False solomon’s seal
Solidago caesia – Bluestem goldenrod
Solidago odora – Anise-scented goldenrod
Solidago ulmifolia – Elm-leaf Goldenrod
Symphyotrichum cordifolium – Blue wood aster

Graminoides

Carex appalachica – Appalachian sedge
Carex pensylvanica – Pennsylvania sedge
Carex rosea – Rosy sedge
Carex texensis -Texas sedge
Chasmanthium latifolium – Riveroats (AGGRESSIVE)
Deschampsia flexuosa – Common hairgrass
Elymus hystrix – Bottlebrush

Maintenance

Maintaining a shade garden in South Central Kansas requires a “low-intervention” approach that prioritizes moisture retention and soil health. Our region typically has heavy clay soils that can swing from waterlogged to bone-dry in a couple of weeks. We recommend applying a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch—such as shredded leaves, compost or, ideally, fallen leaves (leaf mold) to maintain a cooler root zone and suppress weeds.

Native species are quite adaptable to the specific clay-heavy soils and erratic moisture cycles of the Great Plains but even the hardiest shade plants will struggle without regular watering through the summer months. After all, you are trying to grow them in an area that was once a vast prairie with limited rainfall, not a forest with more consistent rainfall throughout the year.

Watering should be done deeply but infrequently at the base of the plants to encourage deep root systems, specifically during the “flash droughts” common in July and August. During these prolonged periods without beneficial rainfall, weekly watering is essential to sustain your shade garden. Unlike sun-loving gardens that may require some deadheading, a native shade garden benefits from being left alone in the fall; leaving the spent stalks and leaf litter provides critical overwintering habitat for beneficial insects and naturally replenishes the soil nutrients for the following spring.

Native Milkweeds

Posted on April 8, 2026 by Scott Vogt

The Essential Foundation of the Butterfly Garden

Native milkweeds (genus Asclepias) are far more than just roadside weeds; they are the biological foundation of our resilient North American landscape. As the sole host plant for Monarch butterfly larvae, milkweeds provide essential chemical compounds that protect these iconic insects from predators. By integrating native species into your garden, you aren’t just adding greenery—you are participating in a larger conservation effort to stabilize declining pollinator populations.

*Monarch caterpillar on common milkweed (Photo by Brad Guhr)*

Selecting the Right Species for Your Soil

One of the most common misconceptions is that all milkweeds require the same environment. To ensure success, you must match the plant to your specific site conditions. Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) thrives in heavy clay and moist soils, making it perfect for rain gardens or along a pond edge like we have at the Arboretum, while Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) demands sharp drainage and sunny, dry spots. Choosing a species indigenous to your specific ecoregion ensures the plant will thrive with minimal supplemental watering once established.

*Monarch butterfly on swamp milkweed, **Asclepias incarnata**, in late August. Hesston, Kansas. (Photo by Janelle Flory Schrock*)

Aesthetic Appeal Beyond Utility

Beyond their ecological impact, native milkweeds offer striking ornamental value that rivals traditional nursery bedding plants. The vibrant, tangerine clusters of Butterfly Weed provide a rare “true orange” to the summer border, while the architectural, spherical blooms of Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) fill the evening air with a heavy, honey-like fragrance. Other spreading but valuable milkweeds are Sullivant’s Milkweed (Asclepias sullivantii) and Showy Milkweed (Asclepias speciosa). Each milkweed has unique seed pods that also provide late-season visual interest, eventually opening to release silken “floss” that catches the autumn light.

*Sullivant’s milkweed at Chase State Fishing Lake. Photo by Brad Guhr.*

Managing Growth and Expectations

Integrating milkweed into a formal landscape requires a bit of strategic planning. Some species, like Common Milkweed, Sullivant’s Milkweed, and Showy Milkweed spread aggressively via underground rhizomes and are best suited for meadow-style plantings or large back-borders. Plant these spreading milkweeds with other pushy natives like beebalm, spreading goldenrods, gray headed coneflower and Brown eyed susans and let them fight it out. For smaller urban plots, “clump-forming” varieties like Whorled Milkweed (Asclepias verticillata), Green Antelopehorn Milkweed (Asclepias viridis), and Butterfly Milkweed offer a more refined, airy texture that won’t overtake neighboring perennials. Deadheading spent blooms can prevent unwanted self-seeding, though leaving a few pods is vital for the next generation of plants and silk-gathering birds.

*Butterfly Milkweed with yarrow, coneflowers and Golden Baby early goldenrod*.

A Year-Round Wildlife Hub

The value of milkweed in the landscape extends well beyond the Monarch. The high-quality nectar produced by Asclepias flowers supports a diverse “who’s who” of beneficial insects, including honeybees, specialized milkweed bees, and predatory wasps that provide natural pest control. Even in winter, the sturdy stalks can provide nesting habitat for native bees. By choosing native milkweeds over exotic alternatives like Tropical Milkweed—which can harbor parasites—you create a safe, synchronized, and spectacular sanctuary right in your own backyard.

Plant Profile: Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

Posted on April 15, 2025 by Scott Vogt

Have you noticed the redbud trees blooming this year? They have really been putting on quite a show. For some reason, they have really popped in the landscape this year. Maybe it’s because they are a stark contrast to the drab landscape that is slowly coming to life. Or maybe it’s because they are a native alternative to the ubiquitous and noxious Callery pear trees that are spreading everywhere. Anyway, take some time to admire this small native ornamental tree.

Benefits of Redbuds

The edible pink blooms are a favorite of many different pollinators in early spring. There are not many trees and shrubs blooming this time of year, so they rely on the flower nectar to keep them going. These early blossoms draw in nectar-seeking insects that are quickly plucked up by birds too. Northern bobwhite quail and a few songbirds, such as finches and chickadees, will eat the seed pods. It can be used for nesting sites and nesting materials, and it also provides shelter for birds and mammals.

In the wild, redbuds are commonly seen in tree margins and along swales and ravines. The small stature of the tree allows it to fit into most landscapes. Most trees develop a nice vase-shape that shows off the attractive reddish tan bark. The heart shaped leaves emerge as the flower clusters fade. In the fall, these leaves turn yellow and orange before dropping off before winter.

Growing an Eastern Redbud

With multiple seasons of interest, redbuds (Cercis canadensis) deserve a place in just about any landscape setting. Redbuds are hardy in zones 4 to 9 so they are adapted to our climate here in Kansas. New trees can be planted in the spring or fall with my preference being a fall planting.

This small ornamental tree is native to the eastern half of Kansas. It is one of the earliest trees to bloom and produces an abundance of purplish-pink flowers. For best growth, plant them as an understory tree with morning sun and afternoon shade. They can grow in full sun but prefer protection from the hot afternoon sun. In too much shade they are leggy and sparse. A moist soil is preferred, but they are quite drought tolerant once established.

We have seen our redbud foliage damaged by herbicide drift, some of our on doing but other times from farmer spray drift, so be cautious when using chemicals around your trees. Redbuds are in the legume family so they develop bean pods. These tan pods can sometimes be very abundant so keep that in mind when choosing a location. I have never seen this as a problem, but they will eventually fall from the tree.

Eastern Redbud Pruning and Maintenance

Redbud trees grow quickly, usually putting on a foot or two per year depending on their growing conditions. Typically, they live for about 30 to 40 years. Once established, most trees will only need to be watered during periods of prolonged drought. Mulch around the trunk with coarse wood chips will help the soil retain moisture and cool the root system. The gnarled trunks and branches can break from strong winds, so occasional pruning may be needed to thin out the canopy.

Besides breakage, redbuds are afflicted with cankers on the branches and stems. Usually, this is not a problem that is lethal. Most redbuds have some sort of raised bark that adds to the character of the tree. Also look for fungal problems like mildew, verticillium wilt, and leaf spots. These are more likely to occur when airflow is limited, so consider pruning your tree so it has a more open structure to provide better ventilation. Insects are not usually a problem, but webworms and Japanese beetles may appear and can be treated with an appropriate but cautious application of a recommended insecticide.

Top Eastern Redbud Cultivars

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis var. alba) (white flowers)
‘Forest Pansy’ and ‘Merlot’ have red/purple new growth. In my experience, these red leaf forms need more protection from the hottest afternoon sun.
Oklahoma Redbud (Cercis canadensis var. texensis ‘Oklahoma’) Glossy green leaves, more intense flower color, insect resistance.
Rising Sun Redbud-dwarf flowering tree (6-10 ft tall) has unique tri-colored leaves that blend sunny yellows and bright orange colors. This will need full sun protection as well.
Ruby Falls Redbud-A petite, one-of-a-kind, cascading tree with maroon-purple to dark green leaves. Again, it will need to be protected from hot afternoon sun.

Rest the Water

Posted on March 6, 2025 by Scott Vogt

Over the past few years, I have taken up the hobby of fly fishing. It has been challenging to say the least. Learning the basics of casting, choosing the right fly or flies, reading the water and so much more has taken me to new heights of frustration and sometimes elation. Like many hobbies, learning to fly fish will take the rest of my life to just scratch the surface of all there is to know.

My journey to fly fish began with evening classes through WSU Community Education. I started with the basics and continued on to the casting class. During those classes, I devoured as much information as I could, but still felt like I was floundering. I watched videos, and read blog posts. I practiced casting a little bit before I went to Colorado and hired a guide who help me catch my first trout. It was small but I had accomplished my first goal of just catching one fish. That first fish was incredible. So colorful but resilient living in that cool flowing stream. It was quite the memorable experience.

*My very first trout. Small but incredibly beautiful.*

From those humble beginnings, I worked even harder to learn all I could about the art of fly fishing. I practiced casting several times a week when the weather was suitable. I watched more videos and read articles about streams and trout.

The next summer, I hired a different guide who was an incredible teacher. He was patient and kind to this novice. I learned more from him that day than from any videos I had watched or blogs I had read. It was like drinking from a fire hose. We caught fish…a LOT of fish. But he also made me stop for a moment and look around. While we were eating our lunch, he told me about the geology of the place, where the river starts, how it flows, the beauty of the surrounding mountains, the trees and plants, the clouds and sun, and the trout. He encouraged me to not just fish, but to observe, learn, listen and enjoy the beauty all around me.

*A little better sized fish, but look at where I am standing.*

*I was fly fishing down there. A stunningly beautiful place.*

You see, I was so intent on learning to fly fish that I had not stopped to look around. I was determined to catch as many fish as possible, but I almost missed the beauty in every direction. By making me stop for a few moments, I was able to really appreciate the majesty of my surroundings. It is so easy to forget to look up that we often miss some of the most rewarding experiences of our lifetime.

You may wonder what the point of this story is. Well, it started with a short phrase I read in an article that reminded me of what my guide taught me. It simply said, “…take a break and let’s rest the water.” These words made me pause and contemplate. Learning to rest the water is a way to fish, but also a way to live your life. Too often, our gaze is so hyper focused on something that we don’t take time to look up and around, to listen, and then to savor and enjoy the moments that too quickly pass.

I say this as we approach another spring. As our landscapes are transformed from dormant to green in the coming months, take time to step back and enjoy your handywork. Don’t over work it. Watch the pollinators, and birds. Observe the beauty of a delicate flower. Appreciate the resiliency of a native grass. This is one of my goals in 2025, whether with relationships, landscapes or hobbies – to take time to rest the water. Step back and take it all in, be present, and be attentive to the beauty all around us.

I leave you with a few images of the Flint Hills in the spring.

What Do Pollinators Need?

Posted on January 22, 2025 by Scott Vogt

It hard to believe that spring is coming as I sit here and await sub-zero temperatures tonight. This extended period of cold weather with ice and snow is hard to embrace but I know “this too shall pass”. Anyway, this cold weather has me hunkered down doing some reading and planning for spring.

While reading a horticulture trade magazine, I came across a short blurb called “The Perfect Mix” by Jennifer White. The gist of the article highlighted a study by Auburn University that observed which wildflowers attract and help pollinators in the southeastern United States. Of all the wildflowers they observed, Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Indian blanket flower (Gaillardia pulchella) and Blue vervain (Verbena hastata) attracted 89% of all bee taxa.

*Bumblebee on **Echinacea purpurea** – photo by Janelle Flory Schrock*

The study also found that even obscure wildflowers are important in the lifecycles of many uncommon or “common specialist” native bees. These rare and uncommon native bees need the most help as they struggle to find enough nectar sources for their survival.

From this study the researchers were able to put together a seed mix of wildflowers that is highly attractive to pollinators, particularly bees. Those three wildflowers are important for many native bees, but they only bloom for a short period during the growing season. The takeaway for me from this article was that pollinators need many different wildflowers to complete their lifecycles. You may say, “DUH”, that seems to make sense, but we don’t always think about pollinators along with aesthetics as we are putting together a native habitat garden.

Successful plantings that help pollinators the most have a succession of blooms throughout the year. A good design has a progression of blooms starting in April and continuing through October. As I put together a design, I pay close attention to groupings of wildflowers and when they bloom. I generally don’t put two spring blooming wildflowers groups right next to each other in the design but rather have a spring bloomer next to a summer bloomer next to a fall bloomer with some native grasses incorporated for cover and texture. These overlapping blooms mimic what we find in the prairies.

I work really hard to create a succession of bloom in most of my designs. It can be difficult in smaller designs, but it is so important. By having plants coming into and out of bloom throughout the year, pollinators will keep coming back to your yard to find the sustenance they need for their survival. Grouping the same species of wildflowers together also makes it easier for pollinators to find blooming plants. They just have to buzz from one blooming plant to the next without expending much energy. Pollinators love clusters of blooming plants.

Overlapping bloom periods with a diversity of plants is the key to a successful pollinator garden. I try to map out wildflower bloom times to make sure I have all the months of the growing season covered. Become familiar with the plants in your garden and put together a simple spreadsheet focused specifically on bloom times. This will not only help you create a beautiful garden, but one that attracts bees and other pollinators to your garden all year long. This seems so simple, but it will have a dramatic affect.

Messy Trees

Posted on November 6, 2024 by Scott Vogt

I love this time of year. Cool mornings and warm afternoons are a welcome break from the heat of summer. This time of year also reminds me that not all trees are the same. Some have beautiful fall colors of orange, red, yellow and purple while others shades of tan and brown. Once the leaves drop from the trees, the fruit stands out even more.

We also quickly realize that some trees are “messier” than others. Whether it is the leaves that drop, the fruit that drops or the sticks that litter the yard, trees are constantly dropping something. Sure, there is not a perfect tree that magically cleans up after itself, but there are some trees to avoid planting in certain locations within your landscape if you have a choice. Here is a list of trees to think twice about planting in your landscape.

Sweet Gum (Liquidamber styraciflua)

This ornamental tree is primarily grown for its brilliant fall color of oranges, reds, yellows and purples. It can be quite stunning, but it also produces copious amounts of spiky gum ball fruit. My in-laws had one of these growing in their front yard and it was a prolific fruit producer that they complained about every year. Like most messy trees, it has its place in the landscape, but not in a place where your grandchildren will be walking barefoot.

*Sweet gums have great fall color, but spiny fruit*

Catalpa (Catalpa speciosa)

The large heart shaped leaves of this native lowland tree along with the fluffy white blooms in the summer can be reasons to have this tree in your landscape. However, the long cigar shaped seed pods and thousands of catalpa caterpillars are major drawbacks. I have one of these trees in my yard in a low spot that has standing water when it rains. I can appreciate the blooms from a distance but in the fall, I do have to collect the large leaves so they don’t smother my lawn.

*Catalpa heart-shaped leaf with long cigar shape fruit pod*

Cottonwoods (Populus deltoides)

These trees are notorious for dropping sticks and debris throughout the year. The fluffy cotton clogs up air conditioner units and seedlings sprout up any place with constant moisture in the spring. They are also susceptible to many diseases and insect pests. As our state tree, their native habitat is along rivers, streams and ponds. Their roots are typically shallow, buckling sidewalks and driveways. My colleagues have been lobbying to cut one of these down that currently grows on the edge of our prairie.

Black Walnut (Juglans nigra)

This tree is often found along prairies, stream margins and fencerows. While native, you should avoid planting a black walnut along streets and driveways. The round, hard nuts will stain concrete and they are tripping hazards. The fruit and foliage can be quite pungent as well and the leaves are a favorite of walnut caterpillars. These pests can become so numerous that they will totally defoliate the tree. It also produces a toxic compound that can kill other plants you are trying to grow around and under its canopy. Leave it in the wild and go to it to collect the black walnut fruit if you like to eat them.

Oaks (Quercus sp.)

I hesitated including oaks in this list, but then I looked at my back deck, currently covered with tiny acorns. We value oaks for their long life, shade, hardiness, fall color (sometimes), and wildlife attraction to our yards. In fact over 900 species of winged insects rely on oaks for their life cycles, not to mention birds and other wildlife. If you plant one of these mighty oaks in your yard, just know that you have to take the good with the bad. In my case, the good far outweighs the bad.

*Pin oak acorns roll around my backyard like marbles, but at least the squirrels are happy.*

Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)

The ginkgo tree is a living fossil with distinct fan-like leaves. The beautiful yellow fall color and hardy disposition make it a much sought after street tree. However, there are male and female trees. The female trees produce a fruit that is both messy and smelly. Some liken the fruit smell to rotting flesh. If you really want a ginkgo in your landscape, seek out one of the many male varieties.

Other obvious trees to avoid

Bradford pear, mimosa, Goldenrain tree, silver maple, Norway maple, weeping willow, river birch, Siberian elm, tree of heaven, mulberry, black locust and Russian olive.

Choose Wisely

As I said earlier, there are no perfect trees. We view some trees as “messy” because they require us to repeatedly clean up the yard. Every tree drops something, but messy trees with stinky, messy fruit and large branches that can damage your house or pests are more problematic. If possible, do your research before planting so you know what to expect as the tree matures. To get good shade, you might have to put up with some messiness. If you are stuck with a messy tree, either embrace its faults by regularly cleaning up the mess or choose to have it removed.

As you know, trees in Kansas are a luxury, so think carefully before removing a mature tree. The downsides of a mature tree needs to far outweigh the upsides. In the case of my 60 year old oak trees that frame my backyard, I regularly pick up fallen branches and routinely blow off my deck and sidewalks of acorns and leaves. I have come to appreciate these trees because they attract so many different forms of wildlife, provide shade, and add to the diversity of my entire landscape.

Water Smart: Steps to Establishing Your Native Plants

Posted on September 24, 2024 by Scott Vogt

Originally published on April 29, 2015, here are some helpful hints from our Executive Director Scott Vogt on getting your native plants established using “waterwise” methods.

Over the past few weeks, we have been fielding quite a few questions about how to properly establish plants purchased at our fall FloraKansas Native Plant Days. Hopefully, many of you have a great start and your plants are beginning to attach to the soil. But if you have questions, keep reading for some helpful reminders and step by step instructions for our method of establishing plants.

Now that you have purchased your plants at our FloraKansas plant sale and hopefully gotten them planted in your landscape, you’ll want to be intentional about watering methods. It’s true, native plants are more drought-tolerant than you may be used to. However, in order to get your plants successfully established, they will still need some careful attention these first few weeks and through the summer.

Follow these steps to be “water smart” as you establish your native plants:

The First Year

When planting: Water plants as soon as you get them in the ground. Allow the water to soak in, then water again until the soil is thoroughly moistened.

First Two Weeks: Water plants daily depending on the weather. If it rains, skip a watering. Just-planted roots are only able to absorb soil moisture from the potting soil. They have not attached to their surrounding soil. When you see new growth, the plants have begun to get established.

First Month: Unless the weather is extremely hot and dry, you may be able to decrease watering frequency to two or three times per week. Generally, you want the soil to be dry an inch or two below the surface before you water. Too much water leads to foliar and root problems. It is optimal to allow the soil to dry between watering because this encourages roots to grow deep.

Following Months: Water only when top inch or two of soil dries or when plants display signs of being dry. Water deeply and infrequently. How much water will depend on your soil and environmental conditions. Don’t forget to check your plants during the winter months.

The Second Year

Water deeply as needed. During prolonged periods of dry weather water once or twice per week. Generally, it takes plants at least two years to fully develop a sustaining root system.

The Following Years

Properly planted and watered plants should be fairly well established, and can thrive with less watering than you may expect. Drought-tolerant plants may need no supplemental water, whereas shallow-rooted plants or plants with greater water needs may need water weekly. Many plants, when selected for the conditions in your yard, may need watering only once or twice a month in dry weather.

Best Management Practices for Native Plants (BMPs)

Drought-tolerant plants: Even drought-tolerant plants need regular water until they are established!

Young Trees and Shrubs: Young trees and shrubs need deep regular watering. During times of little or no rain, water deeply once a week until trees become established.

Fertilization: Don’t fertilize new plants. Fertilizing during establishment encourages rapid top growth that is not sustainable by the root system.

Mulch: Mulch new plantings with 1-3 inches of mulch and keep mulch away from plant stems.

Water in the morning: Less water is lost to evaporation.

Choose the right watering method: A soaker hose applies water directly to the soil and reduces evaporation. If you are planting a few plants in an existing planting bed, hand watering can get the new plants the water they need while not overwatering the rest of the bed.

Get to know your soil: Is your soil sand or clay? It greatly affects watering frequency and duration. Our clay soils can only take in about an inch of rain per hour.

Check soil moisture before watering: Check soil moisture with finger or spade. Soil should be dry an inch or two below the surface before you water.

Recheck soil after watering: At least an hour after you water (or two hours with clay soil), probe soil to see how deeply the water penetrated. If it didn’t reach the root zone, you may need to increase your watering. If the area is soggy, try cutting back on watering next time.

Pick the right plant for the right place: Choose plants that are pest-resistant, require less water, and match the sun, shade, and soil in your yard.

Avoid planting in hot, dry weather: Plants will easily stress and not develop healthy roots under hot, dry conditions. If you must plant in summer, plant in the cool of the morning when less water is lost to evaporation.

The Johnsongrass Problem

Posted on August 27, 2024 by Scott Vogt

This summer in my travels through Kansas and surrounding states, I have seen more Johnsongrass than ever before. It is everywhere. It has proliferated to the point that it is pushing out native vegetation, including remnant prairies and most roadside ditch prairie plants. The expansion of this exotic grass is so aggressive that I am afraid that nothing can be done to reverse the trend in most of the areas that I see. It is a travesty.

*Johnsongrass has a narrow leaf blade similar to milo or sorghum and a panicle seedhead similar to switchgrass.*

History

Johnson grass, or sometimes Johnsongrass, Sorghum halepense, is native to Asia, North Africa, and the Mediterranean. It was introduced in the U.S. around the 1800s and is named after Alabama plantation owner Colonel William Johnson who is said to have actually planted a crop of the grass on river bottom land in 1840. However, Johnson grass had been established in several other states about a decade earlier.
It was originally considered a prospective forage crop but Johnsongrass turned out to be an agricultural weed. The unintended consequence of Johnsongrass introduction was that it caused tremendous economic loss due to its invasive spread by seed and rhizomes. Cash crops were pushed out and livestock were poisoned by the plant. Today, it is considered one of the ten worst weeds in the world, especially for range land.

This grass was promoted as good for cattle grazing and hay, but it has had the opposite effect. It is very hard to eradicate once it gets a foothold. If you try to plow it under, it simply spreads more plants similar to tilling a stand of bermudagrass. Plants stressed by drought or freezing weather will produce hydrogen cyanide (prussic acid), which will kill livestock when the grass is eaten in larger quantities. Horses and repeat grazers are most susceptible to harmful effects such as bloating or death.

*Johnsongrass colony along a stream bank in Hesston.*

Control

You may ask, then, what can be done? Small stands can be hand pulled, dug up and monitored for resprouting, but you must be diligent and vigilant to make sure you have removed the entire plant. Scouting the peripheral edges of you property and immediate eradication with Round-Up is the best.

Always use caution when using any chemical including Round-Up. I hate to spray, but in this case, an application of glyphosate/Round-Up is warranted. Round-Up is a non-selective herbicide that will kill any plant it is sprayed on, so care has to be taken when applying it. Again, monitor and respray the sprouts that pop up after the original burn down.

You must be vigilant. A few years of growth of Johnsongrass unchecked can have very dangerous consequences to your prairie or landscape. We can’t reverse all the damage already done, but we can keep it from damaging your corner of the world. It takes some effort to keep invasive species at bay, but it is always worth it.

Plant Resiliency

Posted on June 5, 2024 by Scott Vogt

As we edge closer to summer, I have been thinking about how we go about choosing plants for our yards. Certainly, we choose plants that we like aesthetically, but many of us also want to choose plants that help wildlife survive. Yet another reason for choosing a particular plant is its resiliency or persistency in the landscape. How does it fair during times of stress? (Because the Kansas climate can be very stressful!)

If you can’t stand the heat…

Last summer was really hard on a number of long established plants here at the Arboretum. We lost trees that were 40 years old. We lost perennials that we thought should be alright with a little supplemental watering. These plants were watered, but they just could not endure the stress of the summer heat and drought.

*This Black Hills Spruce was permanently damaged by last summer’s heat and drought. Notice the soaker hose at the base of it, but even that was not enough to save it.*

Now, we could lament the fact that we lost these trees, but I believe their demise was inevitable. They were not the best choice because of where they come from.

Take Colorado blue spruce as an example. It grows naturally in higher elevations, with regular afternoon showers, and cooler night time temperatures. Yes, the sun is intense in Colorado, but it can recover during the cooler nights. You bring that evergreen tree to Kansas and subject it to full sun, dry winds and night time temperature in the 80’s, it cannot recover what is lost during the day. Each day, it keeps getting beaten down more and more until it just gives up. We lost several tops of evergreen trees last year because the top half was just scorched off. We were watering them, but the water loss during the day was too great to overcome.

*Norway spruce with the top scorched off last summer.*

If at first you don’t succeed…

In Kansas, we mourn the loss of any tree. Trees in south central Kansas are a luxury. We love the shade or screening they provide. However, we have to keep in mind that our area was once all prairie. The only trees to be found were along creeks and swales that offered regular water. We are trying to grow trees in the much harsher prairie environment.

So think about your own landscape. Which plants are thriving and which are struggling? What plants have been difficult to keep going in their current location? Is there a certain plant in your yard that you worry about when it gets hot? You can keep trying to pamper that plant into the future but don’t be surprised when it all of a sudden doesn’t come back the next year.

With loss comes an opportunity to make a better plant choice. Do your homework and learn about plants that are adapted to our areas. There are recommended trees and shrubs for our area. Obviously, we promote native plants because of all the good things they do in our landscapes if properly situated.

One more thing…

I would also encourage you to diversify your landscapes with as many different plants as you can. Many different plants will attract many different types of wildlife. Don’t make it so hard on yourself. Choose plants that are resilient in the landscape.

*Perennials in front of Taylor Junipers.*

Early May Blooms at the Arboretum

Posted on May 7, 2024 by Scott Vogt

As we work further into spring, I thought I would share some rare and some common prairie plants in bloom at the Arboretum the first week of May. Enjoy!

Plains wild indigo *(Baptisia bracteata*)

Missouri evening primrose (*Oenothera macrocarpa*)

Native Blue False Indigo-*Baptisia australis var. minor* and Golden Alexander-*Zizia aurea*

Eastern Gama Grass-*Tripsacum dactyloides* reestablishing itself along the new concrete pathway in the Prairie Window Project south of the hedgerow.

We have been fortunate to receive just enough rain to green up the prairie nicely. If you are in the area, stop by and see the many other early May blooms. The Arboretum will be at its peak for spring bloom in a couple weeks.