Petals and Patents: The Business of New Plants

We get a lot of questions about what it means for a plant to be a cultivar or a variety, and if that is good or bad in terms of pollinator attraction or ecological value. There are lots of strong opinions on the matter, but to really answer that question, it is important to know how that plant is produced, where and how it was discovered, and what the patent says about its parentage. It can be a tricky! Come along with us on our blog series where we plunge into the intrigues of plant reproduction and patenting, and the impact that the horticulture industry has on the market for native species.

Today’s question is: How is it possible to patent a plant, and why do people do it?

We most often discuss plant patents in reference to agricultural species. Selecting and improving crops for yield, drought resistance and improved taste has been instrumental in creating a stable global food economy. In fact, domestication of wild food plants has been happening for 10,000 years! But in modern times, horticulturalists are working to alter ornamental species as well. They do this to reduce the height, change the flower color, improve drought resistance, and so on. While our original goal in selecting and altering plants was for food, humans can now also use the same principles to improve certain flowering species for landscaping use in cities and neighborhoods.

For many thousands of years most of our commonly consumed foods have been carefully selected for desirable traits, and subsequently domesticated. Photo found here via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0,

Creating a “New” Plant

Echinacea is an easy example to start with, since horticulturists love to mess around with this plant! Echinacea species hybridize readily with each other, and they are a very marketable plant. This is why there are so many Echinacea varieties and hybrids to choose from, all with different colors, heights, and habits. But how do these come to exist?

Let’s follow the story of one line of Echinacea breeding, now known as Echinacea purpurea G0052Y. The patent link itself makes for a pretty long read, so I will do my best to paraphrase for the layperson:

  • In 2001, ‘Magnus’ Echinacea and ‘Kim’s Knee High’ Echinacea were cross pollinated.
  • Seed developed, and was collected.
  • Researchers planted that seed in fields and in greenhouses in the spring of 2002.
  • By July of 2002, eleven of the best plants were chosen as the best of the bunch. Pollen was collected from these eleven plants, mixed, and redistributed amongst the eleven to pollinate them.
  • Seeds where harvested from each of the eleven plants, and planted into eleven different field populations.
  • Researchers monitored the fields for desirable traits, and identified 22 plants with horticulturally important traits (brighter flower color, good branching, compact height).
  • Pollen was collected from the 22 plants, mixed, and used to pollinate them again.
  • Researchers harvested the seed that developed, and planted again in 2004.
  • The plants with the most striking, deep rose flower color and best growth habit were identified, and tested for which of their traits are dominant (recessive color testing).
  • Researchers identified four plants that had identical copies of the gene for brighter flower color.
  • These four were crossed to create a stable line that could be named G0052Y.
  • Between 2006 and 2008 the resulting seeds were planted in field trials to ensure stability and uniformity.
  • Once confirmed, the patent was applied for – USP 7,982,110.

Patent Pending

The process of breeding and trialing plants requires a lot of time, and a lot of money. Researchers can spend many years testing and tinkering before they create a plant that is actually marketable. Receiving a patent protects their hard work and initial investment, and eventually allows them to charge royalties on the product. The breeding of E. purpurea G0052Y has directly led many of the popularly available Echinacea varieties available today, like the Sombrero series of red, orange, and yellow, as well as the Proven Winner’s Echinacea ‘Fire Finch’.

Rhus typhina ‘Tiger Eyes’ is a patented cultivar of the native staghorn sumac with a shorter height than the species. Because of this, we can more easily incorporate it into landscape designs. But research is ongoing on whether the alteration in leaf color is detrimental to insects.

Pros and Cons of Patented Plants

Patented plants are all around us. They are hard to distinguish from other plants unless you read the fine print on the tag. But there are some pros and cons to using them in your garden.

Pro: breeding plants increases awareness and wider use of natives. Folks who would have never been exposed to these species are now seeing them in popular gardening magazines and at garden centers, leading to greater public access.

Pro: patented plants bred for reliable height and structure are excellent for landscapers trying to achieve a specific look. These plants grow more uniformly than genetically variable straight species, which can be bigger/smaller depending on parentage or environmental conditions. In a formal planting, business setting, or city park, aesthetic is king! The predictability of a plant’s performance is a must*.

Cons: in some cases, we inadvertently shorten the lifespan of highly specialized plants. This is particularly apparent in Echinacea. A native Echinacea can live on for many years, but some of the brightly colored red and orange hybrids sometimes last four years or less. If the plant blooms more prolifically and for a longer period of time, it can sort of “exhaust” itself and this may be a contributing factor to a shorter overall lifespan. This is certainly not the case for all patented plants, but is something to be aware of.

Cons: patented plants reproduced via asexual propagation are all clones. The lack of genetic variation may lead to issues in mass plantings – if they are susceptible to a certain pathogen, the gardener is likely to see the problem in the whole group.

*hopefully we will start to slowly change our perspective on what constitutes an “attractive” urban landscape to allow for more natural variation, and if so, the pressure for the plant to be ‘perfect’ and uniform will become a thing of the past!

Should I Buy Patented Plants?

‘Tuscan Sun’ Heliopsis is less prone to flopping over than the straight Heliopsis helianthoides. It is also a little less spready, which appeals to gardeners with little space. Photo from Walter’s Gardens

For some folks, these pros are not convincing enough and for others these cons are no worry at all. It just depends on your overarching goals. If you are trying to create a prairie reconstruction and are concerned with genetic diversity, then steer clear! But when looking for bloom power and reliable performers for an urban setting, a well-bred plant might be perfect. In my vegetable garden, I stick with ‘Better Boy’ tomato and ‘Slicemaster’ cucumber, those patented plants ensured to perform well. I also opt for nativars when planting a species that is traditionally too unruly. With a small yard, I must choose plants that won’t outgrow my space. But in the case of most other flowers and grasses, I personally prefer to stick with straight species or older cultivars that are not far phenotypically from the species.

All that to say, don’t let the business of plant patenting scare you off. Do your research, and figure out what your priorities are for the garden. If you need advice on your particular project, be sure to reach out to us via our contact us form. Our plant people are happy to help!

What Do Pollinators Need?

It hard to believe that spring is coming as I sit here and await sub-zero temperatures tonight.  This extended period of cold weather with ice and snow is hard to embrace but I know “this too shall pass”.  Anyway, this cold weather has me hunkered down doing some reading and planning for spring. 

While reading a horticulture trade magazine, I came across a short blurb called “The Perfect Mix” by Jennifer White.  The gist of the article highlighted a study by Auburn University that observed which wildflowers attract and help pollinators in the southeastern United States.  Of all the wildflowers they observed, Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Indian blanket flower (Gaillardia pulchella) and Blue vervain (Verbena hastata) attracted 89% of all bee taxa. 

Bumblebee on Echinacea purpurea – photo by Janelle Flory Schrock

The study also found that even obscure wildflowers are important in the lifecycles of many uncommon or “common specialist” native bees.  These rare and uncommon native bees need the most help as they struggle to find enough nectar sources for their survival. 

From this study the researchers were able to put together a seed mix of wildflowers that is highly attractive to pollinators, particularly bees. Those three wildflowers are important for many native bees, but they only bloom for a short period during the growing season. The takeaway for me from this article was that pollinators need many different wildflowers to complete their lifecycles.  You may say, “DUH”, that seems to make sense, but we don’t always think about pollinators along with aesthetics as we are putting together a native habitat garden.

Gaillardia aristata

Successful plantings that help pollinators the most have a succession of blooms throughout the year.  A good design has a progression of blooms starting in April and continuing through October.  As I put together a design, I pay close attention to groupings of wildflowers and when they bloom.  I generally don’t put two spring blooming wildflowers groups right next to each other in the design but rather have a spring bloomer next to a summer bloomer next to a fall bloomer with some native grasses incorporated for cover and texture. These overlapping blooms mimic what we find in the prairies.    

I work really hard to create a succession of bloom in most of my designs.  It can be difficult in smaller designs, but it is so important.  By having plants coming into and out of bloom throughout the year, pollinators will keep coming back to your yard to find the sustenance they need for their survival.  Grouping the same species of wildflowers together also makes it easier for pollinators to find blooming plants. They just have to buzz from one blooming plant to the next without expending much energy.  Pollinators love clusters of blooming plants.     

Overlapping bloom periods with a diversity of plants is the key to a successful pollinator garden. I try to map out wildflower bloom times to make sure I have all the months of the growing season covered.  Become familiar with the plants in your garden and put together a simple spreadsheet focused specifically on bloom times. This will not only help you create a beautiful garden, but one that attracts bees and other pollinators to your garden all year long.  This seems so simple, but it will have a dramatic affect.

Blue sage with bumblebee

A League of Their Clone

We get a lot of questions about what exactly it means for a plant to be a cultivar or a variety, and if that is “good” or “bad” for pollinators or ecological value. There are are a lot of strong opinions on the matter, but to really answer that question it is important to know how that plant is produced, where it was discovered, and what, in terms of flower form and leaf color, has been altered. It can be very confusing! Come along with us on our blog series where we plunge into the intrigues of plant reproduction and patenting, and the impact that the horticulture industry has on the market for native species.

Today’s question is: What does it mean when a cultivar or variety is “clonal”? And what are the pros and cons of using them in the landscape?

People often think a “clone” is a newfangled science fiction concept. But some plants reproduce this way naturally. Take the beloved house plant Chlorophytum comosum, also known as spider plant or airplane plant.

Anyone who has owned one of these beauties knows how prolifically it produces miniature versions of itself. In nature, these babies would eventually drop off and land in the crevice of a tree or log to put down roots and make more miniature versions. The mother plant lives on seemingly forever! We see the same method of reproduction in rhizomatous plants like sumac, persimmon and aspen trees. The shoots that form vast colonies are all connected, all part of one organism. We call these clones because, genetically speaking, they are just copies of their parent. As there was no sexual reproduction to produce a seed, the parent plant and baby plant are identical.

Clonal Propagation

Humans often help the process along if we want to preserve the attributes of a particular plant. Clonal propagation can be vegetative, via tissue culture, or by division. Let’s say I’m out on a hike when I spot a clump of little bluestem that catches my eye. Very unique: short and reddish, more rounded, compact and deeply colored than the taller thin bluestem all around it. This plant may be a genetic outlier, holding a mutation in its genome that caused these characteristics. With the permission of the landowner, I could dig up a part of the plant and take it home. That is known as a division. It creates a duplicate of parent plant, with the same genetic makeup. And if I were to grow it in my yard and divide it a hundred more times, it would still be like the original.

‘Twilight Zone’ Bluestem, photo courtesy of Walter’s Gardens.

True Blue

If I plant this bluestem in my garden, it should show the same physical traits as the parent plant. I say should because this is the test – field trials are necessary to make sure that a division (clone) of a desired plant actually holds true. Sometimes mutations are flukes, a product of some environmental factor like predation or soil conditions. In that case, the desirable traits do not stay over time. If I manage to keep it alive for several seasons, and it continues to look as expected, then we are really in business! If I went on to field trial it many many times, name it, and market it to garden centers, this would end up being a new cultivated variety, or cultivar. Not to be confused with a botanical variety.

This chart made by Hoffman Nursery (one of our grass suppliers) shows the wide variety of traits that little bluestem can have, and the cultivars that reliably exhibit them. Named cultivars are the result of many field trials and much data collection before they eventually come to market as trusted landscaping specimens.

Why not just collect seeds instead?

In many cases, seed from the plant we want to reproduce does not come true to type. This means the special qualities we liked in that particular plant are not transmitted to the offspring reliably. Seeds are produced via sexual reproduction and gene mixing. The natural process of pollination creates a sort of genetic smoothie – everything gets all mixed together to create new individuals, with its variable characteristics. Some will be tall, short, upright, floppy, more reddish or almost completely blue. If you want the exact look as the original plant you discovered, reproducing clonally is necessary.

Two prairie dropseed plants (straight species, non-clonal) seen here, planted at the same time just a few feet apart. They exhibited wildly different growth rates. In the foreground, it is only twelve inches tall while nearby a different individual grows to be almost three feet! Some of this difference is likely genetic variation.
‘Tara’ is a dwarf dropseed cultivar well-suited for public spaces because of its short and upright habit. It was found growing in Southeastern Wisconsin by plantsman Roy Diblik. Photo from Hoffman Nursery, originally from Intrinsic Perennials.

Pros and Cons of Clonal Propagation

The benefit of clonal propagation is uniformity. Mass planting in urban settings often demands certainty from height, color, habit and vigor. Using seed-grown bluestem gives more variable results. I advise folks to think carefully about their goal when planting natives: Is it to create a prairie reconstruction or research plot? Seed strains and straight species are best here, as they will give you the most natural results, and hopefully add to the genetic fitness of all the nearby bluestem species. Do you need something very tidy and reliable for an HOA, city street median, or parking lot island? Cultivars will likely yield more uniform results, and be well received by the audience you are trying to impress. The plants you use truly depend on the goal you are chasing and the maintenance plan you have in place.

Later in this series, we will dive into the complicated process of plant patenting and the complicated language around varieties and hybrids. Stay tuned!

New Plants around the Grounds

I recently spoke at the Oklahoma Native Plant Network fall festival in Oklahoma City. They had a day full of speakers, including representatives from Tulsa Botanic Garden, the Xerces Society and Bat Conservation International. But the real treat of course was the plant market outside the presentation hall. So many great native treasures were available from local vendors, I couldn’t resist buying a few new plants. I was able to get a few hard-to-find species for installation on the Arboretum grounds. Keep an eye out for these beauties on your next visit.

Callicarpa americana var. lactea – White American Beautyberry

Photo provided by the grower, Wild Things Nursery of Seminole, Oklahoma.

I didn’t even realize a naturally occurring white variety of beautyberry existed until I saw it being sold by Wild Things Nursery at the ONPN event. All the same lovely characteristics as its purple cousin – shade tolerant, pollinator friendly, bird attracting – but with striking white berries on arching stems. Marilyn, the owner of Wild Things Nursery said she collected the seed over twenty years ago down a shady dirt road in north western Arkansas. According to her they come true from seed reliably. Beautyberry are marginally edible, though not very tasty. Find these new additions in the back of the Compassionate Friends Garden near the hedgerow at the arboretum.

Hibiscus laevis – Halberd-leaf Rosemallow

Our pond has several lovely Hibiscus moscheutos thriving along its edge, and I am excited to add H. laevis to the mallow collection. This is a slightly taller species with narrow leaves, as the name implies, in the shape of a medieval sword. Native throughout the eastern half of the US, though much of its wetland habitat in the mid-Atlantic has been disturbed. Sadly, it is not as commonly found as it once was. I’ll be planting this on tip of the island, where there is some space on the banks thanks to our latest renovation. I found this at a great plant at a vendor called Duck Creek Farms from Mounds, Oklahoma.

Native Range of H. laevis, according to USDA plants database

Wisteria frutescens – American Wisteria

Anyone who has seen the opening scenes of Bridgerton house on Netflix’s hit show will recognize the pendulous purple blooms of Wiseria vine. But most of the Wisteria you see in media and in formal landscapes is the asian variety. Beautiful, but at a price: invasive in certain parts of the country and downright pushy in the garden, it needs diligent trimming to keep growth in check. But native W. frutescens is a great alternative to its exotic cousins, and with plenty of color to spare. I’ll plant this next spring near a leg of our new octagonal gazebo soon to be erected in the Birdwatch Garden.

Shop Til You Drop

Photo by Sue in az, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In between shopping for the Arboretum, giving the keynote presentation of the festival, and networking with all the like-minded conservationists and plant peddlers, of course I also snagged a few things for my own landscape! I found blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum) for a hot, dry spot near my front sidewalk. I also found an adorable spineless cactus (possibly Optunia ellisiana?) to plant nearby. Here’s hoping these cuties fill in the rather inhospitable space between my purple prairie clover and creeping sedum.

If you are in the area, put ONPN’s fall festival on your radar for next year. It was a great time to learn about native plants and related topics in conservation. And you will never see me turn down an opportunity to buy plants and support small growers!

Aromatic Aster

One of my favorite prairie wildflower species has to be aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium). Aromatic asters are hardy, drought-tolerant forbs that bloom toward the end of the growing season. Their leaves have an herbal scent when crushed. Aster species are host plants for caterpillars of butterflies including painted ladies, pearl crescents, and silvery checkerspots as well as many species of moths. In the late summer and fall, aromatic aster flowers delight the human need for color and provide nectar for many insects, most notably, butterflies, bees, wasps, flies and beetles.

Aromatic aster var. ‘Raydon’s Favorite’

According to Mike Haddock at Kansas Wildflowers and Grasses, aromatic aster is found across almost the entire state of Kansas on dry, open prairies. In our Dyck Arboretum reconstructed prairie, aromatic aster (seed collected from the Smoky Hills ~30 miles north of Hesston) is just about finished flowering. Its purple hues popped a couple of weeks ago among the reddish-brown colors of senescing warm-season grasses.

A Star in the Prairie Garden

In our native plant gardens, aromatic aster is the star of a show that we have been looking forward to all growing season. Aromatic aster fills garden spaces between other plants nicely where its dense, low 1′-2′ foliage crowds out weeds and lends above-ground support to neighboring plants. But its late-season flowers are the main reason that this species is a dominant part of our featured Butterfly Garden.

Educational signage in our Dyck Arboretum Butterfly Garden bed (line drawings by Lorna Harder)

While I enjoy observing all prairie flowers throughout the growing season and the pollinators they attract, aromatic asters just seem to take the human entertainment value to a higher level. Given the high number of flowers on each plant and the lack of anything else blooming this time of the year, this species usually seems to put on the greatest show of the year as it plays host to a busy array of insect pollinators.

The two varieties of aromatic aster in our Butterfly Garden are ‘October Skies’ and ‘Raydon’s Favorite’. They bloom at different times and in nice succession for a long season of attracting pollinators. I seem to usually observe the former blooming from late September to mid October and the latter from mid October to early November.

Comparison of aromatic aster varieties ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ on left and ‘October Skies’ on right (Photo by Janelle Flory Schrock)

Whether I’m walking with elementary schoolers, college students or retired master gardeners, this Butterfly Garden spot on a sunny afternoon is always a regular stop. The flowering spectacle by aromatic aster in this time of the year is one of my favorite flower/pollinator interactions in the prairie garden.

When trying to capture the jaw-dropping wow factor of a landscape scene like the Flint Hills or a Kansas sunset, a photo or video never conveys the inspiring scene I want. Nevertheless, here is a video of the super busy pollinator scene I witnessed yesterday (10/22/24).

13 Butterfly Species Observed

The butterflies I observed nectaring on the flowers of aromatic aster var. ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ yesterday included the following species: checkered white, sachem, common checkered skipper, fiery skipper, dainty sulphur, clouded sulphur, orange sulphur, eastern tailed blue, common buckeye, monarch, pearl crescent, Melissa blue, and American lady (not all species were visible in the video). Various species of bees (audibly busy), flies, beetles and moths were also abundant.

Stop by and see our Butterfly Garden before the aromatic aster finishes its show in the next week or two. Better yet, add different varieties of aromatic aster to a sunny spot in your landscape where you can enjoy a similar show for years to come.

For a broader review of asters in general, see my colleague’s great past posts, Asters: Autumn’s Crescendo and All About Asters.

Think Pink

Muhly grass is in its prime this time of year, and all our regular visitors are asking about it. This native grass is unforgettable once you see it in bloom, and we are lucky to have multiple types growing on our grounds. Read on to find out which species is right for you!

Muhlenbergia capillaris – Muhly grass, Hair

Planted in the northwest corner of the Arboretum, our plot of muhly grass is in its third year. When first planted they are pretty thin and unimpressive, but once mature these grasses really put on a show, especially if planted in large groups. Vibrant pink seed heads appear in late summer and persist in a thick cloud of color all through fall. Extremely drought tolerant, they hardly need watering once established. They require excellent drainage, best planted in gritty soils, or on a slope.

M. capillaris is native to the southeastern US. Map by USDA plants database.

Muhlenbergia reverchonii – Seep Muhly

Usually smaller in stature, this grass is notably less stiff. While M. capillaris grows straight up, the graceful blades of seep muhly are arching and curled. It isn’t as deep in color, but still has a nice pink hue that is slightly more airy and light. Better for folks who prefer more neutral tones. This species has much more movement in the wind, and is softer to the touch. Something to think about when installing grasses around play areas or walkways!

M. reverchonii has a more limited range, found in the central regions of Oklahoma and Texas.

Muhly Grass cultivars

‘White Cloud’ muhly grass, photo courtesy of Hoffman Nursery

There have been some great options on the market for Muhly grass cultivars in recent years, including a variety of M. capillaris called ‘White Cloud’. It has all the allure of those wispy seed heads but in an ethereal white, a perfect pop for darker backdrops like brick or evergreens. At 4 ft tall it grows a bit taller than the pink types and can be used as a fluffy, neutral tone backdrop in the garden. Muhlenbergia ‘Undaunted’ is a well-loved cultivar of M. reverchonii. It’s weeping seed heads and open habit make it a great specimen plant for the perennial border.

‘Undaunted’ is noted over the straight species for increased hardiness in norther zones and having a deeper panicle color at first flush. Photo courtesy Walter’s Gardens

No matter which Muhly grass you choose, as long as you plant in full sun and well draining soil, you will surely be thrilled with its light texture and season-long interest. It is a water-wise plant with no major pest problems, but it does have few flaws: collapses easily in heavy snow, not very hardy in northern zones, and doesn’t always establish well when planted in fall. Keep those things in mind when considering adding this grass to your landscape. Look out for the spring update of the Native Plant Guide on our FloraKansas page to find out what species we will have available at our spring sale.

Right Rudbeckia, Right Place

Rudbeckia is a very recognizable flower. Its bright yellow blooms appear when summer reaches its peak, and flowers steadily through the hottest part of the summer when we all need it most. Also known as black eyed Susan (named after a romantic poem!) or sometimes as yellow coneflower, Rudbeckia is a variable genus with many garden worthy species. But they each want a little bit different environment, so be sure to put them in the right place!

Rudbeckia maxima – Giant Coneflower

R. maxima is a lesser known species native to the southern US, including Oklahoma and Texas. It averages about 6 feet tall in our area, but can be taller in moist, fertile soils. The flowers attract pollinators all through July, and through the winter a bevy of birds perch on the cones and eat the nutritious seeds. The foliage is striking: waxy and grey, resembling cabbage leaf. A wonderful vertical element to add to your landscape, with very sturdy stems and large blooms. It is a show piece in the garden! But it can easily be floppy if it gets too much shade or the soils are too rich. Situate it in strong sun and semi-dry soil, with dense grasses around it for support.

These R. maxima are thriving on the dry side of our drainage ditch near the greenhouse. The cones were huge this year!

Rudbeckia subtomentosa – Sweet Coneflower

Sweet coneflower is often found in moist sites, as seen here growing on the banks of the Arboretum pond. This plant can handle a bit of dry soil once established, but in general it likes moist sites. So try to plant it in a low spot or drainage area. The common name references the subtle sweet smell of the blooms. Less spready than other species of Rudbeckia, it pairs well in the garden with grasses like Panicum and other tall forbs like Eryngium yuccifolium. The petals can vary in length, and sometimes they are even rolled or ‘quilled’ as seen in the cultivar ‘Little Henry’.

Rudbeckia triloba – Brown Eyed Susan

Clouds of small yellow blooms on stiff, wiry stems appear in mid to late June on this easy to grow perennial. It readily self seeds, to the point of becoming an absolute menace in the garden! But if you have the space to let it run wild it is a pollinator-attracting powerhouse. It is best planted in an area that can be contained, either by mowing, burning or hemmed in by sidewalk/pavement. This species is native throughout most of the eastern half of the continental United States, and grows well in full to part sun and average to moist soil. The cultivated variety called ‘Prairie Glow’ flowers red with yellow tips. It is a seed strain from breeder David Cavagnaro introduced to the garden trade in 2003. Both the straight species and the cultivar are often available at FloraKansas.

Rudbeckia missouriensis blooming in the Gjerstad garden on the northwest side of the Arboretum.

And beyond these three, there are tons more to choose from! In a previous post, Scott talked a bit about R. missouriensis, R. hirta, R. lacinata, and R. fulgida, all great options for the habitat garden. All of these and more are usually available at our biannual FloraKansas event, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled for our updated plant list when it comes out.

Water Smart: Steps to Establishing Your Native Plants

Originally published on April 29, 2015, here are some helpful hints from our Executive Director Scott Vogt on getting your native plants established using “waterwise” methods.

Over the past few weeks, we have been fielding quite a few questions about how to properly establish plants purchased at our fall FloraKansas Native Plant Days.  Hopefully, many of you have a great start and your plants are beginning to attach to the soil. But if you have questions, keep reading for some helpful reminders and step by step instructions for our method of establishing plants.


Now that you have purchased your plants at our FloraKansas plant sale and hopefully gotten them planted in your landscape, you’ll want to be intentional about watering methods. It’s true, native plants are more drought-tolerant than you may be used to. However, in order to get your plants successfully established, they will still need some careful attention these first few weeks and through the summer.

Follow these steps to be “water smart” as you establish your native plants:

4-23 photo 2

The First Year

When planting: Water plants as soon as you get them in the ground. Allow the water to soak in, then water again until the soil is thoroughly moistened.

First Two Weeks: Water plants daily depending on the weather.   If it rains, skip a watering.  Just-planted roots are only able to absorb soil moisture from the potting soil.  They have not attached to their surrounding soil.  When you see new growth, the plants have begun to get established.

First Month: Unless the weather is extremely hot and dry, you may be able to decrease watering frequency to two or three times per week.  Generally, you want the soil to be dry an inch or two below the surface before you water. Too much water leads to foliar and root problems.  It is optimal to allow the soil to dry between watering because this encourages roots to grow deep.

Following Months: Water only when top inch or two of soil dries or when plants display signs of being dry.  Water deeply and infrequently.  How much water will depend on your soil and environmental conditions.  Don’t forget to check your plants during the winter months.

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The Second Year

Water deeply as needed.  During prolonged periods of dry weather water once or twice per week.  Generally, it takes plants at least two years to fully develop a sustaining root system.

The Following Years

Properly planted and watered plants should be fairly well established, and can thrive with less watering than you may expect. Drought-tolerant plants may need no supplemental water, whereas shallow-rooted plants or plants with greater water needs may need water weekly. Many plants, when selected for the conditions in your yard, may need watering only once or twice a month in dry weather.

Best Management Practices for Native Plants (BMPs)

Drought-tolerant plants: Even drought-tolerant plants need regular water until they are established!

Young Trees and Shrubs: Young trees and shrubs need deep regular watering. During times of little or no rain, water deeply once a week until trees become established.

Fertilization: Don’t fertilize new plants.  Fertilizing during establishment encourages rapid top growth that is not sustainable by the root system.

Mulch: Mulch new plantings with 1-3 inches of mulch and keep mulch away from plant stems.

Water in the morning: Less water is lost to evaporation.

Choose the right watering method: A soaker hose applies water directly to the soil and reduces evaporation. If you are planting a few plants in an existing planting bed, hand watering can get the new plants the water they need while not overwatering the rest of the bed.

Get to know your soil: Is your soil sand or clay?  It greatly affects watering frequency and duration.  Our clay soils can only take in about an inch of rain per hour.

Check soil moisture before watering: Check soil moisture with finger or spade.  Soil should be dry an inch or two below the surface before you water.

Recheck soil after watering: At least an hour after you water (or two hours with clay soil), probe soil to see how deeply the water penetrated. If it didn’t reach the root zone, you may need to increase your watering.  If the area is soggy, try cutting back on watering next time.

Pick the right plant for the right place: Choose plants that are pest-resistant, require less water, and match the sun, shade, and soil in your yard.

Avoid planting in hot, dry weather: Plants will easily stress and not develop healthy roots under hot, dry conditions.  If you must plant in summer, plant in the cool of the morning when less water is lost to evaporation.

The Johnsongrass Problem

This summer in my travels through Kansas and surrounding states, I have seen more Johnsongrass than ever before. It is everywhere. It has proliferated to the point that it is pushing out native vegetation, including remnant prairies and most roadside ditch prairie plants. The expansion of this exotic grass is so aggressive that I am afraid that nothing can be done to reverse the trend in most of the areas that I see. It is a travesty.

Johnsongrass has a narrow leaf blade similar to milo or sorghum and a panicle seedhead similar to switchgrass.

History

Johnson grass, or sometimes Johnsongrass, Sorghum halepense, is native to Asia, North Africa, and the Mediterranean. It was introduced in the U.S. around the 1800s and is named after Alabama plantation owner Colonel William Johnson who is said to have actually planted a crop of the grass on river bottom land in 1840. However, Johnson grass had been established in several other states about a decade earlier.
It was originally considered a prospective forage crop but Johnsongrass turned out to be an agricultural weed. The unintended consequence of Johnsongrass introduction was that it caused tremendous economic loss due to its invasive spread by seed and rhizomes. Cash crops were pushed out and livestock were poisoned by the plant. Today, it is considered one of the ten worst weeds in the world, especially for range land.

This grass was promoted as good for cattle grazing and hay, but it has had the opposite effect. It is very hard to eradicate once it gets a foothold. If you try to plow it under, it simply spreads more plants similar to tilling a stand of bermudagrass. Plants stressed by drought or freezing weather will produce hydrogen cyanide (prussic acid), which will kill livestock when the grass is eaten in larger quantities. Horses and repeat grazers are most susceptible to harmful effects such as bloating or death.

Johnsongrass colony along a stream bank in Hesston.

Control

You may ask, then, what can be done? Small stands can be hand pulled, dug up and monitored for resprouting, but you must be diligent and vigilant to make sure you have removed the entire plant. Scouting the peripheral edges of you property and immediate eradication with Round-Up is the best.

Always use caution when using any chemical including Round-Up. I hate to spray, but in this case, an application of glyphosate/Round-Up is warranted. Round-Up is a non-selective herbicide that will kill any plant it is sprayed on, so care has to be taken when applying it. Again, monitor and respray the sprouts that pop up after the original burn down.

You must be vigilant. A few years of growth of Johnsongrass unchecked can have very dangerous consequences to your prairie or landscape. We can’t reverse all the damage already done, but we can keep it from damaging your corner of the world. It takes some effort to keep invasive species at bay, but it is always worth it.

Plant Spotlight: Spigelia marilandica

Bright red, versatile, compact habit and attracts hummingbirds…why has the landscaping industry so often overlooked this plant? Spigelia is a lesser known and underutilized species for native gardens. We rarely see it in landscape designs in this area, and it can be hard to find commercially available. What gives? Read on to find out about this wonderful plant and how to use it in your garden.

Photo by J. Carmichael (Tevonic), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Pinkroot

Spigelia marilandica, also known as woodland pinkroot or Indian pink, is a petite treat. Two feet tall and wide and blooming in June, it is a big show in a small package. The deep red trumpet shaped blooms are yellow on the inside, forming a two-toned flower when the petals bend outwards. Indigenous people in its native range have used it medicinally, though we don’t suggest trying this on your own as it does have some toxic properties at higher doses.

USGS Bee Inventory and Monitoring Lab from Beltsville, Maryland, USA, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The tube shaped blooms attract butterflies and hummingbirds, and it is low maintenance once established, needing no special trimming or care. According to its entry on the Ladybird Johnson database, “This plant does very well in gardens. It blooms from the bottom upward and the flowering season can be prolonged by removing the flowers as they wither.”

So, What’s the Catch?

S. marilandica is not found much around here. Its native range is mostly in our neighboring states to the south and east. Not to say there aren’t going to be a few stray specimens living in some moist woods of eastern and south eastern Kansas, but it would be rare. It likes lots of moisture, like streambanks and seasonally wet ravines, and prefers shade. Moisture and shade are not what Kansas is known for.

This map shows the native range of Spigelia marilandica, from BiotaNA

But if you have a shade garden in Kansas, you are likely giving it a bit of supplemental watering just to keep things going during our droughty summers. Why not add this beauty to the mix? They are difficult to find and propagate from seed (though there is some helpful advice here on that topic), but lucky for our local readers we will have some live plants available at our fall FloraKansas fundraiser! We will have a variety called ‘Little Red Head’,

Spigelia ‘Little Red Head’, Photo courtesy of Walter’s Gardens

Companion Plants

With its bright red color, Spigelia is a showstopper. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be complemented by companion plants that also like semi-moist shade. Think hostas, phlox, geranium, and starry champion. Spring blooming woodland ephemerals like Columbine and Mertensia would play well with this species. Remember to plant in clusters of three or five for the biggest impact, and repeat those clusters to create a cohesive look even if you are aiming for a naturalistic woodland garden.

Spigelia will be available at our fall FloraKansas event, which is coming right up in September, the weekend following Labor Day!