Arboretum Pond FAQ

Posted on May 25, 2016 by Katie Schmidt

Spring is a beautiful time to visit the Arboretum, the flowers are blooming and everything is lush and green. Unfortunately, our pond has turned green as well! The warming temperatures make perfect growing conditions for the unsightly algae and aquatic plants. Pond maintenance has become a regular part of our work week. We have been doing some quality staff bonding in the water, brainstorming together different control methods, and we have gotten many questions from passersby concerning our pond maintenance routines.

What exactly is that scummy green goop?

From left to right: moss in a Scotland bog, Spirogyra algae on a Romanian pond and an aquatic plant in an aquarium.

There seems to be much confusion when distinguishing between moss, algae and aquatic plant. Let’s set the record straight with some semi-scientific definitions:

Moss – lives mostly on land in moist/shady locations, limited vascular system to carry water and nutrients internally, which is why it is commonly small and low growing. Flowerless, seedless.

Algae – a general term encompassing many different life forms that are not all related (from single celled phytoplankton to huge clusters of seaweed/giant kelp). General definitions mention that algae lives aquatically in salt and freshwater, has

Me, sporting a wetsuit and some Ceratophyllum demersum.

varying photosynthetic pigments (red-brown algae, green-blue algae) and does not have true root systems, stems or leaves. Flowerless, seedless.

Aquatic plant – usually has a more complex vascular system than algae or moss, lives on the surface of or suspended in water, can have prominent flowers and seeds.

Let the mystery be solved! Floating on the surface of our pond is filamentous green algae. Without taking the time to examine single cells under the microscope we can’t know the exact species, but it is likely a mixture of some of the most common North American freshwater green algae – Spirogyra, Mougeotia, and Zygnema. Just below the surface grows a thick mat of coontail (Ceratophyllum demersum), which is a free-floating aquatic plant. Stringy and clingy, it makes walking the pond a tangly chore.

What do you do about it?

Our usual method is to walk the pond with a floating board, pushing the algae and piling it up for chemical treatment. This can be a slow process and it results in large patches of smelly, rotting algae. Last week we experimented with looping the pond using a metal cable and a tractor, pulling the material to the west low-water bridge. It worked quite well, but left us with the chore of raking the globby, stringy, water-laden stuff onto the bridge to be hauled away. While it was a good staff bonding exercise, it left our backs pretty sore! Hopefully our concerted effort this spring will prevent a massive bloom later in the season, and our future maintenance will be less involved. I hope to continue a treatment regimen that is a compromise between chemical use and tiring rake work.

Is it good for anything?

While we see green growth in the pond as a nuisance, there are a few ecological benefits. Coontail plant provides habitat for perch and bass and can help settle sediment in the water. Waterfowl feed on the shoots and seeds. Free floating planktonic algae is the base of the aquatic food chain and it also can help oxygenate the water. But we just had way too much! An over growth of coontail can cause water stagnation and stunting of fish growth, and surface algae is smelly, unsightly, and shades out the habitat beneath it.

The water that supplies our pond comes from city runoff, which can unfortunately contain pollutants and unwanted nutrients from the streets and freshly fertilized yards of Hesston. An overdose of nutrients flowing into the pond, such as nitrates and phosphates, is often partially responsible for an algae bloom. As our pond ages, we will encounter new maintenance challenges: there will always be undesirable pollutants flowing in, there will always be some pesky aquatic plant to deal with. The best we can do is try to educate ourselves and attempt to be more aggressive than the algae growth!

I’ll be keeping my wetsuit hanging on the line, ready for more pond action this summer.

For more detailed information about pond ecology, life cycle and systems, click here.

Photos attributed to:
Moss By Rosser1954 (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons, Aquatic plant By Andrew Butko, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=25657435, Algae CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=105989

Principles of a Sustainable Landscape Design

Posted on March 9, 2016 by Scott Vogt

Through our work in promoting the use of native plants in landscaping, we have observed that homeowners and gardeners are becoming increasingly aware of the positive impacts they can have on the natural world. At the same time, they are looking for ways they can sit back and enjoy the fruits of their labor.

In a weekly article I receive online, landscape architects were asked to rate the expected popularity of a variety of residential outdoor design elements in 2016. Here are the top trends in landscape design, according to the American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA):

Rainwater/graywater harvesting-88%
Native plants-86%
Native/adapted drought tolerant plants-85%
Low maintenance landscapes-85%
Permeable paving-77%
Fire pits/fireplaces-75%
Food/vegetable gardens (including orchard, vineyards, etc.)-75%
Rain gardens-73%
Drip irrigation-72%
Reduced lawn area-72%

These trends highlight the importance homeowners place on a functional landscape – landscapes that reflect their values and life style, gardens that center on solutions to problems rather than creating additional problems. Invest your time and energy in something that can make a significant difference. Think about these four principles as your develop your own sustainable landscape design.

Principle #1 – Treat Water as a Valuable Resource

We have seen the dramatic results of the drought in the west. Throughout 2011 and 2012, we endured our own drought here in Kansas. Certainly, the extremes we faced were not as severe as in places like California or Texas, but the impact on our landscapes can still be seen. Water demand was at an all-time high. Our landscapes were losing water faster than it could be replaced. In the aftermath, people began to ask tough questions about water use, irrigation practices, plant material and rainwater collection.

A sustainable design focuses on proper plant selection (i.e. native plants), drip irrigation if necessary and rain gardens or collection points to capture storm water. This new approach to design keeps water in the proper perspective.

Baptisia ‘Purple Smoke’ is a native, drought tolerant perennial

Principle #2 – Value Your Soil

Like water, soil is a finite resource. There are choices we can make to improve our soil and to reduce or eliminate runoff and soil erosion in our landscape.

A sustainable design uses deep rooted perennials and grasses to hold the soil. These plants can be combined in appealing combinations. Beautiful blooms, textures and forms serve functional purposes in the design.

“Twilight Zone” little bluestem Photo courtesy Walters Gardens.

Principle #3 – Choose Native Plants

In my opinion, your first choice in a landscape should always be native plants. There are so many wonderful plants to choose for your landscape. I know there are some amazing adaptable perennials too, but if you start with a base of natives, you will be rewarded year after year.

A sustainable design matches appropriate plants to the site. Right plant, right place.

Native planting at Sunset Elementary in Newton, KS

Principle #4 – Don’t Be Wasteful

Does your landscape add to the landfill? How much waste does it produce each year? Lawns are an important functional element in the landscape. I need a space for my children and pets to roam. They can also generate large quantities of yard waste, especially if you collect grass clippings. Do we need a huge lawn or can it be reduced in size and replaced with beautiful wildflowers, grasses and ornamental trees and shrubs?

A sustainable design evaluates every aspect of the landscape with the goal to reduce your negative environmental impact, while including features that are beneficial to the natural world and beautiful at the same time.

These homeowners chose to reduce lawn by replacing with wildflowers and shrubs.

“It’s simple: By gardening with native plants, no matter where you live or how small or large your space is, you can help sustain wildlife.” – Doug Tallamy, Bringing Nature Home

Still wanting more information? You may find some helpful hints on our “Landscaping with Native Plants” page. Or, you may wish to sign up for a Native Landscaping Class and/or visit with one of our staff at the FloraKansas Native Plant Sale, April 21-25.

Eight Garden Myths Worth Knowing

Posted on February 10, 2016 by Scott Vogt

Over the years, I have come to realize how little I knew about gardening the right way. So much of what I knew as a budding horticulturist was gleaned from school. It wasn’t until I had killed a few plants and tortured many others that I began to learn some basic principles that guide how I work in my own garden today. Many times, we do things to plants and flowers in our gardens for no reason, other than “that is how it has always been done” or “Mom or Dad told us to do it that way”. There may not be any legitimate scientific data backing a certain practice, but that doesn’t stop us from doing it anyhow. Begin to demystify gardening with these truths I have learned.

Myth #1 Add sand to improve clay soil drainage.

Truth: This takes me back to my days sitting in soils class and learning about soil particles. Clay particles are fine and fit nicely between the sand particles which forms a substance similar to concrete. Since every pore is filled with these particles, air exchange and drainage is reduced, if not made impossible. The better choice for clay soils is to choose plants that thrive in them, such as milkweed, indigo, bluestem, or blazing star.

The result of mixing sand and clay soil-It will dry and become like concrete.

Myth #2 Drought-tolerant plants (native plants) don’t need to be watered.

Truth: They are still live plants that need water for survival, though maybe not as much as others. Match plants to your site, for sure. But native plants are only drought tolerant to a point and may need water during prolonged dry spells. Until they get established, they are very vulnerable to drought stress. Establishment Guide

Myth #3 After pruning a tree, treat open wounds with a wound dressing.

Truth: There is good research suggesting that treating a tree scar/wound after you have removed a branch is bogus. Trees are resilient and can heal themselves. Treatments can delay the healing and even lock in plant diseases.

Oak branch scar with callus tissue

Myth #4 Amend the soil when planting trees and shrubs.

Truth: At the arboretum, we have heavy clay soils. For years, I put soft soil (compost) in the backfill when I planted trees. I have come to find out, that is like planting the tree in a pot. The new roots often circle the hole, unwilling to venture into the hard clay soils. This restricted root growth slows establishment. Use the native soil in the backfill and force the tree to acclimate to its new surroundings.

Myth #5 Plant a tree even with the soil line.

Truth: In our clay soils, it is better to plant a tree high. Find the root flare and plant the top of the flare at least 2 inches above the soil line. It can even be 6 inches higher. Planting too deep can deprive the growing point of oxygen or actually drown the tree if the soil stays too wet. Recommended Trees for South-Central Kansas

Newly planted Sugar Maple is slightly raised

Myth #6 Apply turf fertilizer early in the spring to help encourage new growth.

Truth: Applying early spring turf fertilizer only encourages top growth, resulting in more mowing in the spring and summer. It does very little for the root system of the turf. In our climate, the focus needs to be on developing healthy roots. That is why we fertilize in the fall (October and November). Turfgrass growth slows in the fall as nutrients are translocated to the roots for the leaves. This translocation process stores energy in the roots in preparation for next year, helping it survive the summer with less stress.

Myth #7 If a plant is under stress, it should be fed.

Myth: If a plant is under stress, fertilizer will not solve the problem. Usually it is environmental (dry soils, overwatering, compacted soils, root damage, etc.). Our soils generally have adequate nutrients, so diagnose the problem to find the solution.

Myth #8 When it comes to fertilizers and pesticides, if a little is good, twice as much is better.

Truth: I have experienced this in a number ways over the years, from dead grass to burned foliage, causing me a few sleepless nights. There are precise directions for a reason and label directions have been carefully developed to help you avoid catastrophes. We want immediate results to a problem so we “kick it up a notch”. BAD IDEA!!! Too much of a good thing is usually harmful and often results in unforeseen consequences. Using the exact recommended dosage is always the best practice. Trust me.

These are some truths I learned the hard way. Unfortunately, some plants took the brunt of my misinformation. Myths, old wives tales, and folklore abound in the world of gardening. Learn from my mistakes. You and your plants will both benefit.

Spring Garden Clean Up: Dos and Don’ts

Posted on February 3, 2016 by Katie Schmidt

Though we surely still have a few cold days ahead, it is clear that spring is approaching. This warm spell is bringing the birds out singing and I spy little bits of green sprouting in our clumps of native grasses. This is a sign that it is time to think about spring clean up and preparing garden beds for new growth. Here are a few guidelines that I am following as I begin to tidy up the arboretum.

DON’T …

…start your garden clean up when the ground is too soft. If the soil is still overly moist from the winter wet, you will be creating compaction everywhere you and your wheelbarrow go. If it is truly muddy, the aftermath of your foot traffic could result in uneven ground, squished or exposed roots, and new puddling areas. I know we are all itching to get outside and play in the dirt, but if your garden spot is still soaked, wait.

When cleaning up large areas of native grass, I hop on the mower and let it fly! If you are mowing your grasses, be sure to set the blades up higher than usual so you don’t strip away new sprouts.

DO …

…cut back all those tall native grasses. It is nice to leave them standing through the winter to add color and interest to the winter landscape, but now is the time to shear them back, leaving only 4 to 6 inches left. Make sure to give grasses a haircut early in the spring so that the new growth doesn’t become entangled with the old, creating quite a hassle. And if you didn’t clear away all your annuals last fall, make haste! Soggy and molding annual debris is the wrong kind of compost and can lead to garden disease, providing nesting sites for microbial pests. Clear it out of there, pronto!

DON’T …

…go hacking away at your woody perennials like a maniac in an effort to neaten them up. Some species bloom on last years wood, others bloom on the current year’s wood. Before taking pruning action, do your research and ensure that you aren’t lopping off the buds of spring flowers.

You will lose out on all the wonderful blooms and aromas if you prune your lilacs in spring. Image from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASyringa_vulgaris1.jpg

You will lose out on all the wonderful blooms and aromas if you prune your lilacs in spring. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASyringa_vulgaris1.jpg

Lilac (Syringa), Forsythia, Mock-orange (Philadelphus) and Beautybush (Kolkwitzia) are all woody species that should NOT be pruned in the spring because they bloom on last year’s growth. Crypemyrtle (Lagerstromeia) and Butterfly bush (Buddleia) are just the opposite – spring is the perfect time to shape them and remove split or diseased branches. These species benefit from an intense spring pruning, because it jump starts the new growth that buds are formed on.

DO …

…compost as much of your debris as possible. Turn your pain into gain and make your own organic matter to put back in the garden. But be careful – tough-to-contend-with weedy species should not be incorporated into the pile as they will likely reseed themselves. If your compost is well balanced and hot enough at its decomposing center then weed seeds don’t stand a chance … but whose compost pile is that perfect? If I am worried about the seeds of a certain plant coming back to haunt me, I just don’t take the chance.

DON’T stay inside, DO enjoy the outdoors! January and February is the time to make your action plan for the gardening season and when those few warm days hit, get outside and make your plans happen!

Garden Resolutions: Going Green in the New Year

Posted on December 30, 2015 by Katie Schmidt

In honor of the new year, you may be promising yourself to eat better, exercise more or take that dream vacation you deserve. But what about your garden? Here are 5 garden resolutions to make your yard the best it can be this year – for you and the environment!

Skip the Tilling

For gardeners, starting up the rotor tiller is part of the spring routine.
But it might not be helping the soil as much as you think!

By Griffith and Turner Company.; Henry G. Gilbert Nursery and Seed Trade Catalog Collection. [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Tilling is old news – skip the hassle this year!

Tilling thrashes through weeds for the short term, but turning the soil exposes dormant weed seeds to air and light, priming them to germinate.

Also, it can disturb earthworms and
soil bacteria that help to keep your soil aerated and healthy. Try planning out a garden that has specific foot traffic areas and beds that are easy to reach from all sides, minimizing soil compaction and the need for tilling. If you have the hardest-of-hard Kansas clay in your garden and simply must til, try working up only the rows/areas you are going to plant immediately, leaving the soil undisturbed elsewhere.

Save Water!

This year, make a resolution to lower your water bill and your environmental impact. The EPA estimates outdoor water use to be 30 percent of total household consumption. You can cut this figure by irrigating smarter and less often. If you have a sprinkler system, consider only watering in the morning hours to save water from the evaporative effects of afternoon wind and sun. You can conserve even more water by choosing a drought tolerant species of grass for your lawn – for example, a buffalo grass (Bouteloua sp.) lawn works well in Kansas and needs very little irrigation once established, even in the hottest summer months.

Collect Rainwater for Landscape Irrigation

Another way to lower your water consumption is to collect rainwater from your roof for outdoor use. Rain barrels or cisterns are simple to install and can collect run-off that would otherwise cause erosion and burden public drainage systems. There are many affordable, DIY rain collection systems that will lower your irrigation costs in the coming year. Make installation plans now so you can capture all the free water from those summer thunderstorms ahead.

Make Your Own Compost

Compost is good for the earth and fun to play in. Image from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Compost#/media/File:Compost.jpg

If you haven’t been composting, make it happen this year! Compost is a great addition to hard clay soils, keeps soil organisms thriving and can serve as an alternative to chemical plant foods. The best part? It’s free! Save yourself the time of hauling away yard clippings and leaves, throw them in your compost pile instead. If you want to compost on a smaller scale, then try a compost tumbler. Some great resources regarding composting information and tumblers can be found here. You can purchase one, or make your own!

Plant Native Species

Perhaps best way to be earth conscious in the new year is to plant your garden with native species. Ultimately, native species can give you all the benefits of the practices mentioned above: break up the soil with their deep root systems, conserve water with drought adaptations, and help balance the natural microbial activity of the soil. Of course, the Flora Kansas Spring Plant Sale April 21- 25 here at the Dyck Arboretum is the perfect place to find all the native species you need for your garden this year.

While you are making big plans for the coming year, plan to green up your garden with some of these tips. Make it a priority this year to save time, money, and the planet!

Dos and Don’ts of Autumn Yard Work

Posted on October 21, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Gardening in the fall is different from gardening during the summertime. In my opinion, autumn yard work could barely be called work and borders on fun. The weather is perfect. Cool days with warm sunshine lure us outdoors. Take advantage of this wonderful season, because winter will be here before we know it. There is so much that can be done in our landscape, but how do we prioritize those chores? Here is a list of dos and don’ts to help focus your efforts this autumn season:

Dos:

1. Plant anything and everything.

Trees, shrubs, and perennials benefit from warm soils and beneficial autumn rainfall. Plants properly established will have a head start next spring. Perennials should be planted well before the end of October. Install spring blooming bulbs, tree and shrubs before the ground freezes.

2. Take inventory and think spring

Analyze each area in your yard to determine how plants performed through the year and what will enhance the landscape. A quick check now will guide your efforts next spring.

3. Clean up leaves

Remove leaves from display beds so that plants don’t get smothered. Collected leaves can be composted, which makes excellent plant food and humus. Analysis shows that, when composted, leaves from most trees can contain up to twice as many minerals as aged manure.

4. Mulch

Fall is a great time to mulch all your plants. Mulching now will help protect roots from extreme temperatures while also helping the soils to retain moisture in a typically cold, dry winter. We apply 2-3 inches of new mulch around perennials, trees and shrubs. Be careful! Don’t allow mulch to contact the stem or trunk. We leave a halo around the plants to aid in air exchange and drying. Too much mulch can cause more harm than good.

Table Rock Maple

5. Water

It is vital that perennials, trees and shrubs are adequately watered throughout the fall. Newly installed plants don’t have a fully established root system and would benefit from periodic watering. If the top 1-2 inches of soil is dry, the plants need water. Evergreen trees continue to need moisture in winter, so irrigate thoroughly if needed before the ground freezes.

Don’ts:

1. Do not remove seed heads and stalks.

In certain gardens, we deadhead spent blooms on plants such as gray-headed coneflower to prevent seeding. Other seedheads are left through the winter as food sources for birds. We leave ornamental grasses through the winter. They provide texture and movement in the winter landscape. These beds will be cleaned up in the spring. Seedheads to leave through the winter include black-eyed Susans, sunflowers, coneflowers, grasses, and trees and shrubs with berries.

2. Do not remove habitat.

Logs, leaf piles, brush piles and perennials such as grasses are havens for insects that overwinter in the garden. These beneficial insects will be drawn to your yard if you provide even just a few of these elements in the landscape.

3. Do not prune trees and shrubs.

Keep in mind that fall is NOT the best time to prune trees and shrubs. It encourages new growth that will not get hardened off before winter, making it susceptible to damage. Prune trees in the winter after they have gone dormant. Shrubs can be pruned in the winter as well, but only if they bloom on new growth. Pruning spring blooming shrubs in the winter will remove next year’s blooms. Prune these after they have finished blooming in the spring.

4. Don’t let leaves smother your lawn.

Too many leaves will shade lawns and choke out grass. Either rake and collect them or shred them if they are not too thick.

5. Do not leave out weather-vulnerable pots.

Clay pots are an investment that can be lost with the first freeze. If the soil inside the pot freezes, it will expand, causing it to crack. It is best to remove the soil and put the pot in the garage or tip upside down. There may be ways to” winter proof” these pots with soil in them, but I don’t like to take the chance.

6. Don’t let weeds go to seed.

This seems obvious, but those weeds have a way of hiding. Look thoroughly at your landscape. A little work now with weed removal will pay dividends next year.

Don’t stay indoors this fall. Do have fun being outdoors in your landscape!

Which Trees Should I Plant in Kansas?

Posted on July 22, 2015 by Scott Vogt

The best time to plant trees and shrubs is in the late fall and early winter before the ground freezes. With proper watering and maintenance, newly established plants will get settled and acclimated to their new environment. By developing roots this fall, these plants will increase their chance of survival through the first growing season next year.

The Hesston City Tree Board did a street tree inventory several years ago for the entire city and found that there are too many Silver Maples, Siberian Elms, and Pin Oaks. These three species represent 31% of the town’s total tree population. The recommended percentage of any one tree would be less than 5% of the total population. Insect and disease problems can decimate a single species (such as Dutch elm disease in American elms or pine wilt in Scotch Pine). Tree planting diversity by the citizens of Hesston can help improve the overall make up of the population and bring it back into balance.

At the time of this survey, the City of Hesston and the Tree Board developed a five year planting strategy to promote diversity for future planting. This strategy was intended for Hesston, but will work for nearly every community in the state. Some of their recommendations and mine are contained in the following list. These trees are native to eastern or central Kansas and adaptable to most of the state.

Which trees should I plant in Kansas? Try a few of these:

Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) – A very large broad spreading tree (70’ x 70’) with long smoothly lobed leaves. Mature trees come alive in the fall with squirrel activity as the acorns mature. Excellent as a shade tree, but give it space.

Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra) A large tree (60’ x 60’) with a rounded growth habit in youth and maturity. The seven to eleven lobed lustrous dark green leaves turn a russet-red in fall.

Shingle Oak (Quercus imbricaria) – Pyramidal in youth and eventually becoming broad and rounded at maturity (50’ x 50’). The leaves are unlobed and lustrous dark green, turning yellow brown to russet-red in fall. Leaves are persistent though winter.

Shingle oak

Post Oak (Quercus stellata) – A dense-rounded tree (40’ x 40’) with shiny green leaves that are roundly lobed. Hard to find in the nursery trade, but worth the effort.

American Linden, Basswood (Tilia americana) – A very large (60’ x 60’) upright pyramidal to broadly open tree. The gray smooth bark, fragrant creamy-yellow flowers in late spring, and dark green leaves make American Linden a nice choice as a shade tree.

Sugarberry (Celtis laevigata) – A hackberry with smooth gray bark and large (40’ x 40’) rounded growth habit. Fruits have a sweet date-like taste and are loved by birds.

Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) – Widely adapted to many areas throughout the state, hackberrys can withstand all Kansas can throw at them. Upright to pyramidal in habit (40’ x 40’) with rough deeply furrowed plate-like bark. It is a larval food source for the question mark, comma, hackberry, tawny emperor, snout, and morning cloak butterflies.

Catalpa (Catalpa speciosa) – Very adaptable to a wide range of soils from wet to dry. It has an open irregular crown (50’ x 40’) with large heart-shaped leaves. The flowers, which appear in May and June, are quite showy. Worth growing, even though it is thought of as a messy tree that drops its leaves and seed pods. Don’t all trees do that?

Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) – Tough oval rounded tree (40’ x 35’) with fragrant white blueberry-shaped flowers in May and June. The real treat comes in the fall when the edible fruit ripens and the foliage takes on colors of yellow to reddish-purple.

American Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana) – Rare in the nursery trade, this tree deserves to be used more because it makes a great street tree. Pyramidal in youth becoming rounded with age (25’ x 30’), it has deep green, sharply serrated leaves that turn yellow-brown in fall.

American Hophornbeam

These trees are examples that will increase the tree diversity in your neighborhoods and landscapes. For more information on these or other trees for your area, contact your local tree board, local horticulture extension agent, or visit the arboretum. We have examples of many of these trees growing at the arboretum. I would be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Remember – diversity is the key to success!

Where Have All the Conifers Gone?

Posted on July 15, 2015 by Scott Vogt

The Kansas landscape can be stark and lifeless at certain times during the year. In the winter, the hues of brown are seen everywhere from the leafless deciduous trees to the native grasses in the prairies and ditches. This harsh landscape is only broken up or punctuated by evergreens.

During the growing season, they melt into their surroundings, but are exposed as the landscape changes in the fall and winter. Early settlers noticed their green forms and incorporated them into shelter belts and home landscapes to breathe warmth and life into a drab and dreary panorama.

Sadly, these conifers (cone-bearing seed plants) are under siege. They are being decimated by a variety of diseases that really have no reliable cure. Whole shelter belts have been lost to this onslaught. Trees that are 50-100 years old are gone in just a few years.

Even here at the arboretum we have felt the pain of losing evergreen trees. 35 years ago, when the arboretum was originally planted, these diseases were not known and certain conifer varieties were readily available and a more diverse plant selection was not installed. But those species have not proven resistant to disease, so we now have holes in our landscape where mature trees have died.

Taylor Juniper (foreground)
Canaertii Juniper (background)

So what is the solution? I think that the final solution is diversity in the landscape. Just like you diversify your stock portfolio to spread out risk, we need to diversify the evergreens and conifers we include on our land and around our homes. Whole shelter belts have been lost because they included only a few species. Once infected, the diseases spread through the whole line of trees and result in large holes that are filled with other non-desirable species.

The extension service suggests that diseased and dead trees be removed immediately and destroyed either by fire or chipping. The stumps also need to be removed to a depth of at least 6 inches below the surface. Pathogens that spread the diseases overwinter in the dead trees and emerge or are released by April to infect other hosts.

Southwestern White Pine

The arboretum has been experimenting with a few conifer species that seem to be hardy and less susceptible to disease. They are Upright Chinese Juniper (Juniperis chinensis), Easter Red Cedar (Juniperis virginiana), which is the only evergreen native to the state of Kansas with cultivars ‘Canaertii, and ‘Taylor’, Black Hill Spruce (Picea glauca var. densata), Southwestern White Pine (Pinus strobiformis), Pinyon Pine (Pinus edulis), Lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), and Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica). This list is not extensive.

Pines like Ponderosa (Pinus ponderosa), Austrian (Pinus nigra) and Scotch (Pinus sylvestris) have been taken off the recommended tree list because they are so prone to disease. I would highly encourage you to visit the Kansas Forestry Service website at www.kansasforests.org . Once there choose your region to view a full list of recommended trees for your area along with other informative publications.

Arizona Cypress

Full descriptions of these trees can be researched on the internet or you can come to the arboretum and view them in person. For certain species the time will come when they are completely eliminated from the landscape barring a cure. Healthy trees need to be properly pruned and given plenty of air circulation.

You can do everything right and still lose a tree. Replant with a diverse variety of species so your whole landscape will not be open to widespread devastation again. There will be other diseases that come, but diversity will give you the edge.

Six Ways You Can Help the Pollinators

Posted on June 17, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Did you know that this week is National Pollinator Week (June 15 – June 21)? Whether it is with bees, butterflies, birds or beetles, pollinators are extremely important and provide valuable services.

Three-fourths of the world’s flowering plants depend on pollinators to reproduce. Think of all the food crop production that would not be possible without the help of pollinators. We rely on these small, seemingly insignificant pollinators for the food we eat. If they are so valuable, then they are certainly worth recognizing and saving.

Here are six ways you can help increase declining populations of pollinators, including bees and monarchs:

1. Plant Pollinator-Friendly Plants

Certainly, milkweeds are the best wildflowers for attracting monarchs to your yard. We saw it this morning as we walked the arboretum – we found three caterpillars munching on the milkweed leaves. Not only that, but every blooming wildflower was covered with a host of insects. The wildflowers are the buffet. (Peruse our native plant list and sample landscape designs for some inspiration.)

Monarch butterfly on Asclepias incarnata, or swamp milkweed – photo by Brad Guhr

2. Plant for a Succession of Bloom

I recommend planting wildflowers that bloom at different times of the year. A mixture of wildflowers coming into bloom and going out of bloom throughout the year provides a ready food source. This approach mimics the natural prairie and the changing seasons.

Cloudless sulphur on Lobelia cardinalis, or cardinal flower – photo by Brad Guhr

3. Provide Habitat

Layer trees and shrubs along with wildflowers and grasses. These plants provide shelter from the wind along with nesting sites and food for birds, butterflies and bees. Even a small garden can have a tremendous impact.

Bumblebee on Echinacea purpurea - photo by Janelle Flory Schrock

Bumblebee on Echinacea purpurea, or purple coneflower – photo by Janelle Flory Schrock

4. Provide Water

We all need water for survival. Pollinators need it too. A clean source of water such as a birdbath, basin, or hollow stone is enough water for pollinators. These features also provide landing spots so that pollinators have a perch. Here are some great plants to complement your water feature.

5. Reduce Chemicals

There is growing research on the detrimental effects chemicals have on pollinators. Any time we can reduce or eliminate the use of chemicals in the landscape, we are impacting wildlife in a positive way. Allow insects to control unwanted pests. Be willing to accept a few damaged plants, knowing that by not spraying you are saving much more in the long run.

Hummingbird moth on Liatris pycnostachya, or Kansas gayfeather – photo by Janelle Flory Schrock

6. Learn About the Plight of Endangered Pollinators

There is so much to learn about each type of pollinator. What do they need? When are they out in the garden? What do they need to complete their lifecycle? Where do they migrate or how do they overwinter? We have so much to learn about these important insects. (One good resource for this is this book, by Heather Holm, which we often carry in our gift shop. And, of course, MonarchWatch.org is a great resource.)

When it comes to supporting the life cycle of pollinators, you can be part of the solution. Native wildflowers are the best option to help them prosper. You will be amazed when you introduce just a handful of wildflowers to your landscape. If you plant them, pollinators will come.

Buffalograss: Five Keys to a Successful Planting

Posted on June 3, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Believe it or not, now is the time to plant buffalograss. It is one of the few native prairie grasses that can be used for low-maintenance lawns and other turf areas. It thrives in our clay soils and stays relatively low.

The arboretum has benefitted from the established stands of buffalograss we maintain. The fine leaves stay a nice blue-green during the growing season, and it requires less mowing, watering, and fertilizing compared to our fescue or bluegrass lawns.

Newer varieties of buffalograss (Bowie, Cody, and Sundancer) green up faster in the spring, stay green longer in the fall, spread quickly by stolons to cover a planting area and remain shorter. They therefore require less mowing.

Once established, we have found it to be a tough, durable alternative to many cool-season grasses. It thrives in dry, sunny conditions and even survived the extreme drought of 2012. We will be planting some additional areas to buffalograss in the coming weeks.

Here are some ways to ensure a favorable outcome when planting a buffalograss lawn:

Give it sunshine.

Buffalograss needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day and a well-draining soil to grow best. It will not grow well in low areas with periodic standing water or areas of shade. Typically, if it is unhappy, you also will be unhappy with its overall appearance.

Weed control prior to planting.

Just like establishing a flower bed, your seeding area needs to be as weed free as possible. I have found that several applications of Round-Up in the spring prior to planting is the best way to control weeds, especially Bermuda grass and bindweed. I also lightly till (1/4-1/2 inch deep) the area before planting so that I have some loose soil to just cover the seed. Keep in mind that every time the soil is tilled new weed seeds will germinate, which will need to be eradicated before spreading the seed.

Proper seed selection.

There are new forms being discovered and introduced every year, but the forms we have used at the arboretum have been Cody, Bowie, and Bison. We seeded them in June or July at a rate of 2-3 lbs. of seed per 1000 square feet.

Proper establishment.

Buffalograss needs soil temperatures that are above 60⁰ F for germination to start. I normally spread half the seed in one direction and then spread the other half perpendicular to the first half of seed. I lightly rake the area and then pack it in (drive over entire planting with a mower or tractor) to get good seed-to-soil contact.

I water the whole area deeply the first watering to completely saturate the soil (just to the point water is running off) and then follow with frequent light watering until the seeds germinate in 14-21 days. Once germination is complete, infrequent deep soakings will keep the new seedlings spreading. Full establishment of an area from seed can be completed in the first year.

Weed control after planting.

These new forms of Buffalograss perform well in our area. In ideal conditions, they form a thick, dense lawn that can out compete weeds. In marginal situations, weeds can become problematic, requiring weed control through herbicides or manual eradication. We apply a broadleaf weed control in the fall to eliminate henbit, dandelions, bindweed and other broadleaf weeds. Management of weeds in your buffalograss both before planting and the first few years after establishment will, over time, reduce future weed control, watering, mowing and overall maintenance.

I have found buffalograss to be a valuable turf for open, sunny spaces, but keep in mind that it is not a miracle grass that can solve all your lawn problems. The natural look of this native grass should be appreciated because it is adapted to our area. It should also be planted with the expectation that it will require less financial input and minimal work to maintain a dense, attractive turf. For these reasons, I have found buffalograss to be a low-maintenance lawn alternative that is worth growing.