Three Benefits of Native Plant Roots

Posted on January 6, 2016 by Scott Vogt

The other day I was watching a show on television that was trumpeting the benefits of organic matter. It really made me think. I know organic matter doesn’t exactly get everyone fired up, but one comparison that was presented in this program really opened my eyes to the benefits of prairie plants to the soil.

They took soil samples from the edge of a field, which was untilled remnant prairie, and from the farm field itself. The prairie edge had nearly six percent organic matter, while the field ranged from two to three percent organic matter. That may not seem like a big deal, but the prairie provides tremendous improvements to the soil. There is so much going on underground in a prairie. Here is an explanation of what native plant roots do for the soil:

They add organic matter.

Organic matter is extremely important in a healthy soil. It attracts microbes, earthworms, and fungi that bring the soil to life. These organisms break down the thatch at the surface as well as the roots that die from year to year.

Organic matter reduces compaction, making the soil spongy and able to bounce back.

In addition, organic matter increases the water holding capacity. It is said that for every one percent of additional organic matter, the soil can receive four percent more water holding capacity. This is important through prolonged periods without rain.

Western Kansas Prairie-Photo by Larry Vickerman

Organic matter helps prevent soil and wind erosion by binding sandy soil particles together. This binding property of organic matter prevents caking, cracking, and water run-off that occurs when clay soils dry.

They add nutrients.

The breakdown of organic matter consequently infuses minerals throughout the soil profile. For every one percent of organic matter in the soil, it releases on average:

20 to 30 lbs. of Nitrogen
4 to 7 lbs. of Phosphorus
2 to 3 lbs. of Sulfur

Organisms in the soil are vital in the decomposition process. They help recycle the nutrients into forms that are readily available for plants to absorb through their roots. It is a symbiotic relationship. Other plants, like legumes (prairie clovers, lead plant and indigos), actively fix nitrogen from the air and add it to the soil. These native plants live harmoniously together, forming a matrix of roots that keep giving back to the land.

Purple Prairie Clover at Dyck Arboretum of the Plains

They improve soil porosity.

What we see above ground is only 1/3 of the entire prairie plant. The roots are 2/3 of the plant and 1/3 of those roots die each year, adding organic matter to the soil and opening pores, so water can percolate deeply into the ground. If you have a heavy clay soil, native grass roots can break through compacted soils. It is rare to see standing water in a prairie because of the holes punctured deep into the earth by plant roots, allowing rainfall to be readily absorbed.

The rich soils of the prairie that were broken for farming were a result of huge quantities of organic matter. In some places in the Tallgrass Prairie, the top soil was over ten feet deep from centuries of organic matter decomposition. Think of the prairie soil as a living organism that gives and takes and gives and takes. It is true, prairies develop healthy soils. Why not start bettering your own soil by growing a prairie?

Garden Resolutions: Going Green in the New Year

Posted on December 30, 2015 by Katie Schmidt

In honor of the new year, you may be promising yourself to eat better, exercise more or take that dream vacation you deserve. But what about your garden? Here are 5 garden resolutions to make your yard the best it can be this year – for you and the environment!

Skip the Tilling

For gardeners, starting up the rotor tiller is part of the spring routine.
But it might not be helping the soil as much as you think!

By Griffith and Turner Company.; Henry G. Gilbert Nursery and Seed Trade Catalog Collection. [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Tilling is old news – skip the hassle this year!

Tilling thrashes through weeds for the short term, but turning the soil exposes dormant weed seeds to air and light, priming them to germinate.

Also, it can disturb earthworms and
soil bacteria that help to keep your soil aerated and healthy. Try planning out a garden that has specific foot traffic areas and beds that are easy to reach from all sides, minimizing soil compaction and the need for tilling. If you have the hardest-of-hard Kansas clay in your garden and simply must til, try working up only the rows/areas you are going to plant immediately, leaving the soil undisturbed elsewhere.

Save Water!

This year, make a resolution to lower your water bill and your environmental impact. The EPA estimates outdoor water use to be 30 percent of total household consumption. You can cut this figure by irrigating smarter and less often. If you have a sprinkler system, consider only watering in the morning hours to save water from the evaporative effects of afternoon wind and sun. You can conserve even more water by choosing a drought tolerant species of grass for your lawn – for example, a buffalo grass (Bouteloua sp.) lawn works well in Kansas and needs very little irrigation once established, even in the hottest summer months.

Collect Rainwater for Landscape Irrigation

Another way to lower your water consumption is to collect rainwater from your roof for outdoor use. Rain barrels or cisterns are simple to install and can collect run-off that would otherwise cause erosion and burden public drainage systems. There are many affordable, DIY rain collection systems that will lower your irrigation costs in the coming year. Make installation plans now so you can capture all the free water from those summer thunderstorms ahead.

Make Your Own Compost

Compost is good for the earth and fun to play in. Image from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Compost#/media/File:Compost.jpg

If you haven’t been composting, make it happen this year! Compost is a great addition to hard clay soils, keeps soil organisms thriving and can serve as an alternative to chemical plant foods. The best part? It’s free! Save yourself the time of hauling away yard clippings and leaves, throw them in your compost pile instead. If you want to compost on a smaller scale, then try a compost tumbler. Some great resources regarding composting information and tumblers can be found here. You can purchase one, or make your own!

Plant Native Species

Perhaps best way to be earth conscious in the new year is to plant your garden with native species. Ultimately, native species can give you all the benefits of the practices mentioned above: break up the soil with their deep root systems, conserve water with drought adaptations, and help balance the natural microbial activity of the soil. Of course, the Flora Kansas Spring Plant Sale April 21- 25 here at the Dyck Arboretum is the perfect place to find all the native species you need for your garden this year.

While you are making big plans for the coming year, plan to green up your garden with some of these tips. Make it a priority this year to save time, money, and the planet!

Five Ways Native Plants Enrich the Environment

Posted on December 16, 2015 by Scott Vogt

One of the traits of being a horticulturist is a heightened awareness of plants. The good, the bad, the ugly, the sad, and the beautiful are all critiqued. My family is used to it, but they still roll their eyes from time to time as I stop to look at various landscapes.

Over the past few days as I shop for gifts for Christmas, I have noticed several sad landscaping attempts outside the stores. Creativity is at a minimum and most displays add nothing to the beauty of the place. Granted, it is a parking lot or store front, but the plants I have seen do nothing to enrich the environment.

I don’t have all the answers for these areas, but I think native plants could really bring some life to these tough spaces and our own landscapes. Here are five ways I believe native plants enrich the environment.

Native plants increase biodiversity.

A healthy ecosystem includes a variety of plants that are in bloom throughout the year, attracting a host of pollinators. We don’t need to give up beauty for function. Simply put, native plants make things happen in the landscape.

Native plants enrich the soil.

It goes without saying, but a diverse collection of native plants with deep roots benefits any soil type. Native plant roots can grow up to 10 to 15 feet deep depending on the species. Their roots break up heavy clay soils and allow water to thoroughly permeate the soil profile.

A good example would be Big Bluestem. What we see above ground is only 1/3 of the entire plant. The roots are 2/3 of the plant and 1/3 of those roots die each year, adding organic matter to the soil and opening pores so water can percolate into the soil. Legumes such as purple prairie clover or wild indigos fix nitrogen from the air and deposit it into the soil as well. The extensive root systems of native plants help stabilize the soil and prevent erosion. Wow, so many soil benefits!

Native plants reduce inputs.

Native plants do not need pesticides or fertilizers to promote growth. They are able to use nutrients already in the soil to actively grow. A healthy plant that is not under stress is able to fend off pests more easily. Native plants are drought tolerant and require little – if any – supplemental water to survive. If the right plant is matched to the site, that native plant will grow with minimal care after it is properly established.

Native plants provide habitat.

Native plants increase habitat used by wildlife, particularly songbirds. With songbird populations in decline, native plants provide the food and shelter they need for survival. Even a small garden display can have a positive impact.

A robin looks for food in a native plant bed.

Native plants provide a “sense of place”.

Native plants thrive in the Great Plains. They are adapted to its unique environmental conditions and require no special care to survive. Native plants growing in your area convey an understanding of the special place where we live. Let’s look at the particular plants that are native to the land and embrace our “sense of place”.

Dos and Don’ts of Autumn Yard Work

Posted on October 21, 2015 by Scott Vogt

Gardening in the fall is different from gardening during the summertime. In my opinion, autumn yard work could barely be called work and borders on fun. The weather is perfect. Cool days with warm sunshine lure us outdoors. Take advantage of this wonderful season, because winter will be here before we know it. There is so much that can be done in our landscape, but how do we prioritize those chores? Here is a list of dos and don’ts to help focus your efforts this autumn season:

Dos:

1. Plant anything and everything.

Trees, shrubs, and perennials benefit from warm soils and beneficial autumn rainfall. Plants properly established will have a head start next spring. Perennials should be planted well before the end of October. Install spring blooming bulbs, tree and shrubs before the ground freezes.

2. Take inventory and think spring

Analyze each area in your yard to determine how plants performed through the year and what will enhance the landscape. A quick check now will guide your efforts next spring.

3. Clean up leaves

Remove leaves from display beds so that plants don’t get smothered. Collected leaves can be composted, which makes excellent plant food and humus. Analysis shows that, when composted, leaves from most trees can contain up to twice as many minerals as aged manure.

4. Mulch

Fall is a great time to mulch all your plants. Mulching now will help protect roots from extreme temperatures while also helping the soils to retain moisture in a typically cold, dry winter. We apply 2-3 inches of new mulch around perennials, trees and shrubs. Be careful! Don’t allow mulch to contact the stem or trunk. We leave a halo around the plants to aid in air exchange and drying. Too much mulch can cause more harm than good.

Table Rock Maple

5. Water

It is vital that perennials, trees and shrubs are adequately watered throughout the fall. Newly installed plants don’t have a fully established root system and would benefit from periodic watering. If the top 1-2 inches of soil is dry, the plants need water. Evergreen trees continue to need moisture in winter, so irrigate thoroughly if needed before the ground freezes.

Don’ts:

1. Do not remove seed heads and stalks.

In certain gardens, we deadhead spent blooms on plants such as gray-headed coneflower to prevent seeding. Other seedheads are left through the winter as food sources for birds. We leave ornamental grasses through the winter. They provide texture and movement in the winter landscape. These beds will be cleaned up in the spring. Seedheads to leave through the winter include black-eyed Susans, sunflowers, coneflowers, grasses, and trees and shrubs with berries.

2. Do not remove habitat.

Logs, leaf piles, brush piles and perennials such as grasses are havens for insects that overwinter in the garden. These beneficial insects will be drawn to your yard if you provide even just a few of these elements in the landscape.

3. Do not prune trees and shrubs.

Keep in mind that fall is NOT the best time to prune trees and shrubs. It encourages new growth that will not get hardened off before winter, making it susceptible to damage. Prune trees in the winter after they have gone dormant. Shrubs can be pruned in the winter as well, but only if they bloom on new growth. Pruning spring blooming shrubs in the winter will remove next year’s blooms. Prune these after they have finished blooming in the spring.

4. Don’t let leaves smother your lawn.

Too many leaves will shade lawns and choke out grass. Either rake and collect them or shred them if they are not too thick.

5. Do not leave out weather-vulnerable pots.

Clay pots are an investment that can be lost with the first freeze. If the soil inside the pot freezes, it will expand, causing it to crack. It is best to remove the soil and put the pot in the garage or tip upside down. There may be ways to” winter proof” these pots with soil in them, but I don’t like to take the chance.

6. Don’t let weeds go to seed.

This seems obvious, but those weeds have a way of hiding. Look thoroughly at your landscape. A little work now with weed removal will pay dividends next year.

Don’t stay indoors this fall. Do have fun being outdoors in your landscape!

Connecting People with the Prairie

Posted on September 9, 2015 by Scott Vogt

One of the most important components of our mission is connecting people with the prairie. We try to accomplish this in a number of ways, such as through educational programs, plant sales, tours and the Earth Partnership for Schools program. There is a feeling of value, necessity, stewardship and even urgency to establishing a native plant wildlife garden. The arboretum is a model of this type of landscaping using prairie plants. It is our hope that visitors and members desire to learn more about the prairie ecosystem and/or see our displays and decide to follow our example by starting a prairie garden of their own.

One place to begin is to try a few native plants from our FloraKansas fall plant sale. You can start by transitioning the land surrounding your home to native plants. Believe it or not, even a small garden can make a difference. You will be amazed what happens by adding just a few wildflowers to your landscape. It will be a prairie oasis of beautiful plants that will provide habitat to a variety of pollinators and other wildlife.

Help the Monarchs by planting one of these milkweeds available at the sale.

Common milkweed-Asclepias syriaca

Common milkweed

Butterflyweed-Asclepias tuberosa

Butterflyweed

Swamp Milkweed-Asclepias incarnata

Swamp milkweed

Green Antelope Horn-Asclepias viridis
Whorled Milkweed-Asclepias verticillata
Sullivant’s Milkweed-Asclepias sullivantii

Plant a tree this fall. Here are the trees available at the sale.

Downy Serviceberry-Amelanchier arborea
Pawpaw-Asimina triloba
Pecan-Carya illinoinesis
Shagbark Hickory-Carya ovata
Mockernut Hickory-Carya tomentosa
Chestnut-Castanea mollissima ‘Bond Orchard Selection™20817’
Redbud-Cercis canadensis
Yellowwood-Cladrastis kentukea
Eastern Wahoo-Euonymous atropurpurea
Black Walnut-Juglans nigra ‘Orchard Selections’
Eastern Hophornbeam-Ostrya virginiana
Black Cherry-Prunus serotine
White Oak-Quercus alba

: White Oak

Bur Oak-Quercus macrocarpa
Chinkapin Oak-Quercus huehlenbergii
Dwarf Chestnut Oak-Quercus prinoides
Shumard Oak-Quercus shumardii
Post Oak-Quercus stellata
Sassafras-Sassafras albidum

Do you have shade? Choose from some of these shade-loving perennials.

Woodland Phlox-Phlox divaricata

Woodland Phlox

Wild Columbine-Aquilegia canadensis

Native Columbine

Golden Ragwort-Senicio aurea
Wild geranium-Geranium maculatum
Coral Bells-Heuchera varieties
Bristleleaf Sedge-Carex eburnea
Appalachian Sedge-Carex appalachica
Pennsylvania Sedge-Carex pennsylvanica
Solomon’s Seal- Polygonatum biflorum
Wild Ginger- Asarum canadense

Does your landscape attract garden friendly wildlife? Do you implement good land management practices such as using less water, spreading less fertilizer, applying little or no insecticides? Utilizing wildflowers and grasses from the prairie in your landscape will foster a sustainable future for us and the world around us. Be part of the conservation movement. Imagine your native prairie garden combined with other native landscapes in our area providing food and habitat for a host of wildlife. It will make a difference.

Some Prairie Garden Favorites

Posted on September 2, 2015 by Brad Guhr

Late summer to early fall is the best time to establish perennial wildflowers, grasses, and shrubs. With cooler, wetter fall and spring seasons to begin to establish deep, long-lived root systems, plantings at this time of the year have the greatest chance of survival. Our Dyck Arboretum members understand this reality well and are strong attendees at our September plant sale.

Asters typically bloom during the peak of the fall monarch butterfly migration.

With a couple decades of experience seeing native plants in their natural habitat and helping folks establish these plants in their home and school landscapes, I have come to most commonly recommend some favorite species. Criteria for choosing these 27 species include the following:

Eye candy – attractive flowering in spring, summer or fall with species representing a variety of colors and heights;

Bio-diversity – ability to attract insects with tasty foliage, sweet nectar, and/or cover (insects attract many other forms of wildlife too);

Durability – all new transplants require TLC in the first year, but once established in favored conditions, these species are Kansas-hearty;

Good behavior – all happy plants create offspring with their seeds, but if given the space needed for their natural growth form, these selections are not vegetative-spreading bullies;

Full sun, average soil – thriving in at least six hours of sunlight and with soils possessing moderate amounts of silt, clay and moisture.

SPRING

Amsonia hubrechtii – narrow leaf blue star, 18-24”
Baptisia australis var. minor – blue false indigo, 15-24”
Callirhoe involucrata – purple poppy mallow, 6″
Ceanothus americanus – New Jersey tea, 24-36”
Oenothera macrocarpa – MO evening primrose, 8-10”
Penstemon digitalis – smooth penstemon ‘Dark Towers’, 30”
Tradescantia ohiensis – Ohio spiderwort, 30-36”
Verbena canadensis – rose verbena, 8-18”
Zizia aurea – golden alexanders, 24-36”

Blue false indigo with golden alexanders in the background.

Missouri evening primrose.

SUMMER

Amorpha canescens – leadplant, 24-36”
Asclepias tuberosa – butterfly milkweed, 20-24”
Dalea purpurea – purple prairie clover, 15-18”
Echinacea angustifolia – black sampson Echinacea, 18”
Liatris aspera – tall gayfeather, 24-36”
Monarda fistulosa – beebalm, 36-48”
Rudbeckia missouriensis – MO black-eyed susan, 12-18”

Butterfly milkweed and Echinacea flowering in a wildly-planted arrangement.

FALL

Allium stellatum – prairie onion, 10-20”
Asclepias incarnata – marsh milkweed, 36-48”
Aster oblongifolius – aromatic aster ‘October skies’, 18”
Salvia azurea – blue sage, 36-48”
Solidago nemoralis – gray goldenrod, 12-36”
Vernonia lettermanii – ironweed ‘Iron Butterflies’, 30-36”

Aromatic aster ‘October Skies’.

GRASSES

Bouteloua gracilis – golden blue grama ‘Blonde Ambition’ (warm season), 12-24”
Koeleria pyramidata – June grass (cool season), 12-18”
Panicum virgatum – switchgrass ‘Cheyenne Skies’ (warm season), 24-36”
Schizachyrium scoparium – little bluestem (warm season), 12-24”
Sporobolus heterolepis – prairie dropseed (warm season), 12”

Little bluestem with seed.

Your prairie garden planting strategy could go in a couple of different directions: 1) a high diversity, wild prairie look with a few plants of each of these species, or 2) a more focused horticultural look with say only a half a dozen of these species planted in higher frequency and purposeful clumps or patterns. As an ecologist, I historically leaned toward the former. But I also appreciate that our human landscaping sensibilities crave order, and thus find myself more each year leaning toward the latter when advising plantings.

There are many other fascinating features of these plants, including wildlife species specificity, cool pollination mechanisms, herbal/medicinal values, attractive textures/seed heads, and interesting cultural and natural history connections. Whatever your planting strategy you implement with your next garden, just know that selecting from these species will provide you a great start to a lifetime of rewarding and educational native gardening experiences.

Ohio spiderwort, New Jersey tea, rose verbena, and marsh milkweed.