Tag Archives: bindweed

Problem Weeds: Best Management Practices

Posted on by Scott Vogt

The problem with weeds is that they grow so well.  If only the plants I love would flourish like the weeds in my yard do.  Weeds can take the fun out of gardening, and during years with so much moisture, like 2016, they spread like a wildfire.

Here are some weeds we are waging war against in our perennial gardens.  The difficulty is that every weed seems to require a different control measure.  The common themes are that these weeds demand immediate eradication or ruthless elimination.  As soon as you see them, spray, pull, hoe, or dig them out.  These weeds can be relentless and you need to remove them from your garden as if you were trying to remove the plague.

Bindweed

I was at the state fair this weekend and stopped by the noxious weed booth.  (Don’t judge me because I am a plant geek.)  The thing that struck me was the display of how much one bindweed seed can grow in one year.  It’s amazing that it was able to produce so many new plants and that the roots could grow 30 feet deep.  No wonder it is so hard to get rid of in a garden.

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Obviously, the best time to eradicate bindweed is before you plant.  I spray the area with Roundup™ several times starting in July and August.  Anytime we see green, the area is sprayed.  This is the best time to spray because the plant is moving energy from the leaves into the roots for winter storage.  The chemical is also moved throughout the extensive root system, killing even those deep roots.  On the other hand, spring is not a good time to spray bindweed, because the plant is moving everything from the roots upward to produce new growth.  If you spray at that time, you will not kill the roots.  Make sure it is completely gone before planting.  Trust me, it is worth waiting to plant until this weed is removed permanently.

We have had limited success controlling bindweed by solarizing an area with clear plastic.  This process starts by laying a clear tarp on the soil surface and anchoring the edges with soil or bricks and leaving it in place for several months.  The problem with this method is that it kills the surface roots, but does nothing to the deep roots that will sprout after the plastic is removed.  The plant may be weakened but not completely eliminated.

Small patches can be hand pulled but you have to stay on it.  Every sprig that pops up must be pulled immediately.  We have also had limited success with hand painting the leaves with Round-up.  Again, every new plant must be found and painted.  Essentially, you have to be as ruthless and relentless as this weed is to completely remove it from your garden.  I thank my ancestors for bringing this over to America with their wheat seed.

Bermuda grass

This perennial grass is a problem because of its vigorous creeping habit.  The plant spreads by seeds and by above and below ground stems that can take over a garden in one season.  It is drought tolerant and thrives with neglect.

Like bindweed, bermudagrass is best removed before planting (same as bindweed).  If you have it growing next to your gardens, a buffer must be maintained between the perennial display and the lawn area.  This buffer can be sprayed every few weeks with Roundup™ to burn back any new runners toward the garden.  Raised beds are another defense against bermuda grass.  Don’t blow bermuda grass clippings into your gardens.

People have had success with solarizing their area before planting, because the roots are not as deep as bindweed.  Another method requires mowing the area closely.  Next, put down a layer of thick cardboard making sure to leave no gaps.  Next, spread a layer of leaves at least 6 inches deep.  As time goes on make sure no plants emerge through the leaves.  The area can be planted in 6-8 weeks by cutting small holes through the cardboard.

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Nutsedge

This weed loves our mulched beds.  The yellow nutsedge and purple nutsedge spread quickly in areas with little or no competition, garden areas that are regularly watered and poorly drained, rich soil.

This problem weed has triangular grass-like leaves and forms a colony if left unchecked.  Nutsedges produce underground tubers, and runners that make it difficult to pull out of the ground.  Each of these can produce another plant if not completely removed.  Again, you need to relentlessly pull the plants every time a new plant emerges.  It is most active in May through October.

We have had more success spraying nutsedge.  We use Manage™ (Sledgehammer) herbicide.  It is a selective herbicide that only kills nut sedge.  It can be sprayed in close proximity to other perennials, shrubs and trees.  It takes a few weeks for the plants to show decline, but Manage™ kills the whole plant including the runners and tubers.

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“Weeds” are plants out of place.  Some of us have more plants out of place than others, but we all can have success in controlling them.  It takes time.  It takes persistence.  It takes endurance to ultimately get these weeds controlled.  If you have them, I am sorry.  If they are out of control, you will need to evaluate whether it is easier to start over or systematically begin to remove these weeds.  It can be done.  Hang in there, but be as unrelenting as the weeds.  I wish I had better news. As they say on the Red Green Show, “We are all in this together. I am pulling for you.”

A Weed By Any Other Name

Posted on by Katie Schmidt

Here at the Dyck Arboretum it can be a tricky task deciding what is a weed to be pulled and what should be allowed to grow on. Many of our beloved volunteers look to me for guidance when they encounter a plant that looks out of place. What is a weed here?

Many wonderful prairie plants carry the misnomer of “weed”, such as butterfly weed, iron weed, and milkweed. These are plants that may or may not need to be pulled, depending on where they are located. I consider a few factors: does the plant belong here or fit the theme of that garden bed? Is it annual or perennial?  Will it become invasive? Is it part of a plant family that is notorious for colonizing? …and so on. Weeding will become less of a guessing game when you learn to identify some native species and  particularly those nasty exotics.

While the name ‘milkweed’ might cause you to shun this plant for your garden, think before you pull! In the right area, milkweeds may be a perfect addition. They will bloom for several weeks and add a bit of important monarch habitat to your backyard. Photos from Dyck Arboretum.

 

“Where do they come from and how can I beat them?”

Just when you think you have weeded every last square inch of your garden, here they come again.  The seed bank – dormant seed that exists in the top soil – will continue to produce more weeds as long as conditions are favorable. Seeds can lay dormant in the soil for long periods of time, waiting for adequate moisture and light levels. Bindweed seed can remain viable in the soil for up to 50 years! The seed bank is created by last year’s mature weed seeds, bird droppings, hay/manure used for mulching, and seeds carried on the wind. The good news? With regular weeding and mindful practices you will decrease your weed seed bank every year. That means pulling weeds before they seed, using carefully sourced mulch material, and disturbing the soil as infrequently as possible to reduce the amount of dormant seeds awakened by light and oxygen.

Some weeds are obvious

Bindweed with it’s morning glory bloom, Siberian Elm saplings with their small serrated leaves, and prostrate spurge with its circular, flat habit all send up the red flag. These kinds of plants look out of place right away because they lack charisma and often grow in inhospitable areas. (i.e. in driveway cracks and gravel, climbing up stems of other plants).

Some weeds are ambiguous

Virginia creeper vine seems to crop up everywhere, and are very decorative if left to grow in a good spot. But they can also be aggressive when not trimmed regularly. Similarly, a mulberry sprout (which tend to come up just about everywhere a bird flies over), could be left to grow into a nice fruiting tree if you are prepared for the berry-mess and seed spread. Plants like ironweed and Illinois bundleflower seem to pop up everywhere and, though they can be aggressive spreaders, they are also quite attractive.

Ironweed (Vernonia sp.) may at first appear as an intruder, but it produces a colorful, longlasting bloom and is a favorite of swallowtails and many species of bees.

Ironweed (Vernonia sp.) may at first appear as an intruder, but it produces a long lasting bloom and is visited by many species of bees. Photo from Dyck Arboretum.

Some weeds are not weeds at all

I always advocate for leaving milkweed in the garden as habitat for monarchs. Lucky you if a few come up!  Other species like purple poppy mallow and wild petunia that may appear weedy at first actually make well behaved native specimens. These species bloom all summer long and are extremely drought tolerant.

 

While you pull and pluck away at the weeds in the garden, remember the wise words of the poet Ella Wheeler Wilcox – “A weed is but an unloved flower”. Although weeding is the tedious task all of us gardeners must endure, you can make it easier and more productive by knowing the difference between potential friend and foe.